If you read my previous post, you would see that a major con of “Tip & dip” systems is that they just do not last as long as acrylics or hard gels. I don’t mean they don’t last as long between appointments – that, of course, depends on nail prep and the growth rate of the client’s nails – rather, they tend to break down after a few fills as nail resin is not cross-linked and therefore is very porous and susceptible to moisture and the environment. They crack and yellow and need to be removed periodically and reapplied.
Since my last post on the subject, the trend seems to have shifted in the use of these systems to be not so much an alternative for acrylic or hard gel nails, rather they are now being touted as an alternative for Gel Polish, something I am finding very interesting indeed.
Basically, techs are now soaking off and re-applying a whole new set at every appointment. They are not using tips and they are using colored powders instead of the traditional clear or pink and white powders. Personally I think dip systems are much better suited to this type of application then the “tip and dip” acrylic alternative method that has been pushed since the 1980’s.
Only time will tell if this usage of the dip system will finally make it a staple in the nail industry or if it will once again fade away only to be resurrected a few years later as the “latest and greatest new thing”.
Every 5 years or so, nail dip systems pop back up. This year its Signature Nails Systems (SNS) and Dip It. Sally Beauty sells their ASP system. Star nail has their So Fine system. When I was active in the business it was Backscratchers Extreme and Glitz and Glamour. There are many, many other brands and they have been around at least since the early 80's (when it was know as a "French Dip" nail)- no matter what SNS (or any other brand) tries to sell you, this is not a new type of system!
These systems are often known within the industry as "Tip & Dip" systems because the process is just that - apply tip and then apply adhesive and dip the nail into a powder. They are great for women who have become allergic to traditional acrylic since they are not chemically the same as traditional acrylic, natural nail repairs and "temporary" nails for proms and such. They are easily and relatively quickly removed by soaking in acetone.
This system is not an acrylic system. It is closer to wraps than liquid and powder acrylics because it is a resin based system. You could consider it a hybrid of wraps and acrylics since the the main components are resin adhesive, like a wrap, and a fine inert powder, like acrylic. I like to point out that the powder is inert because it does not have any additives in it like acrylic powders, which means you would not be able to use it with monomer. Likewise, it is not a good practice to use traditional acrylic powders with this type of system as you cannot predict how the additives would react with the resin or resin accelerator. Likewise, if you mix systems you cannot guarantee the outcome - yellowing, cracking, heat spikes and allergic reactions are all possibilities.
If they have been around so long, why aren't they more popular? (Cons)
As a resin based system, dip systems have similar "cons" to wrap systems.
Resins are simple polymers and not very water or solvent resistant.
They have a tendency to become brittle and yellow over time and develop spider cracks after a couple of fills. (This is why many techs recommend them only for "temporary" applications.)
Can be cloudy or grainy looking if you use the wrong powder (like regular acrylic powder) or do not brush off excess powder.
Can be unsanitary if clients all dip in the same tub of powder. This can be overcome by putting only the powder you will use for your client in a small dish and when done, throw away and leftover.
Nails can be flat. A more experienced tech can learn to build up the nail in layers and sections but this negates the "ease of application" in the pros section.
