Etching the Nail

In my post on proper PREP I noted that in prepping the nail, your goal is to get rid of the natural oils that coat the nail NOT to etch or scratch up the nail.  Of course for every nail tech who understands and practices this, there are just as many who insist that you need to take a coarse file (100 grit) and "etch" the nail.  Lets take a look at where this misinformation comes from.

Fred Slack was a dentist in the mid 1950's.  One day he and his brother were trying to fix a severely broken fingernail and inadvertently invented acrylic nail extensions (He eventually created the nail company NSI, which is still in existence today).  All acrylic nails in the industry's infancy were created with dental monomer - which was Methyl-Methacrylate (MMA) (which I will discuss in its own post later).  MMA does not bond very well to the natural nail plate. The only way it can adhere to the nail is through mechanical adhesion, which requires massive amounts of damage to the natural nail plate (through severe ‘etching’). The upper most layers of the plate have to be removed to expose the looser knit center of the plate. This gives the MMA something ‘substantial’ to bond to.  (Of course, once MMA is bonded to the nail it doesn't want to come off, but we can discuss this in depth in a different post.)

By the 1970's, the FDA was receiving numerous complaints about MMA and officially placed MMA on its poisonous and deleterious list of substances and warned professional nail manufacturers against the use of the substance. Nail manufacturers began looking for an alternative and by 1978, Fred Slack (again!) developed the first Ethyl Methacrylcate (EMA) monomer for nails. Right around the same time, Creative Nail Design invented their EMA based Solar Nail liquid.

However, just because they invented a new monomer does not mean that their techniques changed. Technicians were still removing multiple layers of nail with a coarse nail file.  And to top it off, they started using an acid based primer which further micro-etched the nail.  As companies like NSI and CND (and OPI and many others) refined their product and invested many, many dollars into research it became known that there was no need to etch the nail with EMA as it was required for MMA. As a matter of fact, nail companies that spent time and money on R&D have studied and refined their products to the point that minimal buffing is now required to just remove the oily shine from the natural nail in order for their products to stick.  They have also refined primers to be protein based rather than acid based.  

At this point, you should take a look at your product and if they are a company that teaches using a 100 grit file (or, really, anything lower than a 240 grit file. If you use a 180, try a 240, a 180 still scratches quite a bit..), try and figure out why.  Is it because they are not a company that has an in house R&D department?  Is it because they have not refined their product and kept up with modern nail technology since the 1970's and early 1980's? Or are you using a coarse file just because you have been told to, even though the manufacturer doesn't recommend it? The thing is, if you are using a 100 grit file and acid based primer to prep your nail, you are doing the same damage as MMA (without the hazards of MMA, but the nail damage is there.)

"But I don't use a 100 grit file to etch the nail" you say.  Ok, great - awesome in fact.  But can you please stop using the term "etching" then?  If you are not putting grooves int he nail for the purpose of adhesion, you are "removing shine" or "breaking up the oil".  (Again with the proper terminology??  YES!)

And to be fair, I do need to point out that you can still over file the nail even with a fine 240 or 320 grit buffer.  It happens to the best techs, but it is less likely to happen and will cause less damage with a finer file.

I personally use a 320 grit most of the time and do not have lifting so don't let anyone tell you that your nails will lift if you use a fine file (if you are using a good, modern product - and yes I know of products out there who haven't changed there formulas since 1983)! Lifting can be caused by many other reasons and using a 100 grit file and extra primer to "stop lifting" is just masking the real reason you are experiencing lifting.Non-living tissue on the nail and improper mix ratio are usually the culprits.

Resources and References
https://www.facebook.com/doug.schoon/posts/10200844136330015
http://selectnails.com/whatismma.htm
http://www.nailsmag.com/encyclopedia/64257/nsi-nail-systems-international
http://www.nailsmag.com/qa/40820/if-i-dont-etch-the-nails-before-applying-acrylics-do-i-need-to-apply-more-prime

Primers

So we have sanitized ours and our clients hands, done a client intake, PREPped the nail and applied tips or forms (if that was what we decided to do smile emoticon ) What's next? Applying product! Generally, the first part of most product lines is priming the natural nail plate to promote adhesion, so lets discuss the ins and outs of primer.

Primer Means “First Coat”. A primer’s job is to join two surfaces that naturally do not slick together well. Whether or not you need a primer depends on your product. If you are applying Cyanoacrylate based systems (like wraps or "tip and dip" systems) or a primer-less acrylic you do not need a primer. Conventional acrylic liquid and powder *will* stick to the nails without primer, but it won’t necessarily stick very well.

The condition of your client’s nails determines whether and how much primer you need. Most manufacturers recommend a single application of primer. Clients with very oily nail beds and chronic lifting may need a second coat of primer. Some medications cause clients to have lifting problems, so those clients may need a second coat of primer.It’s best to start with a minimum of primer and only use more if the client has developed lifting. If you’ve used two coats of primer and the client still develops lifting, your preparation and application technique may be the problem. “Don’t use primer as a crutch for poor technique.” ~ Doug Schoon

Primer acts like a double sided tape - the molecule has two sides - one side is attracted to the natural nail proteins and the other side is attracted to the product.

Original primers were made of methacrylic acid (MAA - not to be confused with MMA). The artificial nail industry as a whole evolved from the dental industry and this is one of those items that came with it. It is a very reliable primer and is a super-dehydrator. MAA primer can also burn the skin, it has a strong, unpleasant odor, and it can thin the nail plate due to the etching mechanism (meaning the acid etches microscopic nooks and crannies into the nail plate). Re-priming the same area more than once doesn’t make the surface more “sticky.” In fact, over-priming with an acid based primer can damage the nail. These still exist today - Tammy Taylor and No Lift Nails are two major brands.

Non-MAA primers (aka Protein Primers) were originally developed for the veterinary industry to repair split and fractured hooves and evolved for the nail industry. It is not as corrosive to the skin and can’t enter the bloodstream via the nail bed. Non-MAA doesn’t work by etching the nail in order for the acrylic to grab hold of the nail surface. It works like a coat of adhesive. Non-MAA primer contains an ingredient that causes a temporary change in the pH of the natural nail (slightly acidic) to make it closer in pH to that of the product (highly alkaline). This pH change helps the product adhere. The nail eventually returns to its natural pH level, and the adhesive strength of the primer diminishes. (Most companies nowadays have this type of primer - CND, Young Nails, etc)

The first coat of an MAA primer should be allowed to dry completely. If you apply a second coat, depending on the particular primer you’re using, you can either wait for the second coat to dry completely, or you can apply the product while the primer is still semi-wet. Doug Schoon warns against applying product on wet primer because it can contaminate the product and cause yellowing, cracking, and bubbling. Non-MAA acid should be allowed to dry completely or its adhesive ability will be negated.

Some other tips:
- Primers should be used extremely sparingly; use just enough to dampen the natural nail. It should not flood the nail or skin in any way.
-Primers only go on the natural nail - never on tips as it can cause cracking of the plastic.
-Do not apply primer on the skin

Now what about using a primer with a primer-less liquid?
Primer-less liquids are created with covalent bonds - the strongest types of adhesive bond in nature. The result is a product that bonds the nail enhancement tightly without the need of using an Primer. What is interesting is that if you use a primer with this type of liquid, you almost always diminish the bond of the liquid to the nail. Think about it - in a traditional gel or liquid/powder acrylic system the molecules are attracted to the primer BUT in a primer-less systems the molecule is attracted to the nail - and not the primer. Which means even though the primer is trying to grab onto the product, the product wants to grab the nail instead but is being thwarted by the primer. Of course, there are some clients who just have lifting issues and prier might actually help in their cases, but they should be the exception not the rule. If you use a primer-less liquid and find you have to use primer, something else is wrong.

One more thing  - liquid primers like MAA and Protein primers are generally interchangeable. I am a big proponent of using a product system (same brand Liquid and Powder, etc) but primers are the exception. HOWEVER, when it comes to gel bonders/base gels that are UV cured, those are not interchangeable. They really are the first step of the gel system, nut a primer as defined in this post. And they can definitely not be used with liquid/powder acrylic!

Proper Preparation for Nail Enhancements (PREP)

I am amazed at the amount of misinformation that is out there - improper PREP damages the nail and just perpetuates the myth that nail enhancements ruin natural nails! 

After you have done a thorough analysis and intake of your client's health, needs and desires for her service, and you have decided to perform an enhancement service, it is time to prepare the natural nail for this service. All nail enhancements (acrylic, gel, wraps, dip systems, etc) start the same way - with a thorough PREP.

P- Perform manicure. The purpose of a manicure here is to rid the nail plate of the cuticle and shape the nail. You do not want to soak the nail or add any oils or lotions. After sanitizing yours and your client's hands, you will apply a good cuticle remover and gently push the eponychium back to expose any cuticle on the nail plate. Scrape off the cuticle thoroughly, make sure to not neglect the lateral nail folds as skin collects there as well. Make sure to completely remove the residual remover and dead tissue. You can use a spray bottle of soapy water to neutralize the remover before cleansing it off (or have the client wash her hands) but do not soak the nails in water. Gently shape the natural nail to fit your tip or form

R - Remove shine. Use a fine nail file to gently remove the shine from the nail plate. You should never use anything coarser than a 180 grit file - a 240 grit is better - and keep in mind your goal is to get rid of the natural oils that coat the nail NOT to etch or scratch up the nail. If you have a lot of dust after this step you have gone too far! 

Many people will do these first two steps as one step with an electric file. As long as you are *thoroughly trained* and are using a bit that is made to be used on a natural nail on low speed then this is acceptable. (I still prefer to thoroughly remove cuticle with a chemical remover, it makes things look cleaner)

E - Eliminate Contaminants - dust the nail with a plastic manicure brush

P - Purify Nail Plate - Use your system's nail cleanser to thoroughly purify and dehydrate the nail plate. For CND this is scrub Fresh, for Young Nails this is Swipe, for OPI its Bond-Aid. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for application.

At this point you should have a set of fingernails that are clean, dehydrated and undamaged and you are ready to move on to your product or a tip application. Because primers are specific to products I don't consider them to be part of PREP.

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Proper File Grit for Prepping

Lets talk about the proper grit to use on the natural nail when prepping the natural nail before an enhancement service. Yes this will be LONG!

When prepping a nail, nail technicians should only remove the shine caused by oil on the surface. If the nail plate is visibly thinner after removing nail enhancements, it is due to overly aggressive abrasives or filing techniques before the enhancement application or during a re-balance service.

Ideally nothing harsher and a 180-240 grit file should be used on the natural nail. EVER. Yes I am aware that there are companies that insist that a 100 grit file needs to be used on the natural nail to "etch" the nail. To me that says the company is either not using the latest technology ("old school" products wouldn't stick to the nail without etching) or the company is not up to date on the industry standards. 

Using a 100 grit file on the natural nail WILL damage it. Period. It might be micro-scratches, but they are scratches that weren't there before. If a product truly does not work without damaging the natural nail, I encourage you to look into other products. Here is  some great info on nail structure from (you guessed it) Doug Schoon. Also, read the quote from him below - it is so true!

Wise Words From Doug Schoon
"Let's clear something up! It's not just nail bars or non-standard salons that are damaging client's nails. I've been in high end salons and watched nail technicians over file the nail plate. I've seen top educators for major companies, over file the nail plates. Go to a trade show and watch the nail demos, and you'll see this happen all the time. Some manufacturers video demonstrate techniques that encourage over filing the nail plate. This is all too common problem in our industry. I'd venture to guess that a significant percentage of all nail techs around the world are prone to using overly aggressive filing techniques. And I guess that many of you reading this post, also over file the nail plate.

"As an industry, we got to move past blaming non-standard salons and begin to realize this is a COMMON problem in the nail industry, which means huge number of nail techs (if not most nail techs) are improperly filing and/or removing nail coatings. Sure, things were much worse in the 80s and 90s and this industry has made great strides in the last ten years. Still, the nail industry has a long way to go. Blaming some nail techs for what many nail techs regularly do will NOT solve this common problem.

"The solutions start with each of you. Nail techs should NOT be removing layers of the natural nail and when coatings are removed- there should be no nail damage. Responsible companies should NOT be teaching potentially damaging techniques which encourage over filing of the nail plate. If your client's nails show signs of nail damage, you need to look at your own techniques and not blame the products. Most of this nail damage is the caused by the nail professional, not the products."