Enhancement Troubleshooting: Lifting nails

You apply a beautiful let of nail enhancements and when your client comes back in 2 weeks you see lifting!  What went wrong?

from http://www.nailsmag.com

Assessing the Nail

First, lets assess the nail - where is the lifting occurring?  Is it at the cuticle?  Is it at the point where the tip meets the natural nail?  Is it along the sidewalls?  Is there a lot of lifting or just a little bit? Is it on all fingers or just one or two? 

By assessing the issues, we can narrow down the cause.  For instance, if the nail is lifting at the cuticle, the issue is not with the tip application.  If the lifting is at the sidewalls, but the cuticle is not lifted, I would take a look at my preparation of the sidewall area and confirm that my product is not flooding the area.  If every single nail is lifted half way from the cuticle up the nail plate, then I know it is a bigger issue than just accidentally bad prep on one nail. Its possible the extension is too long for the natural nail but it could be a systemic issue with the client or my mix ratio or a number of other things.  If only one client has issues and no one else does, then I know its something to do with her (body chemistry, picking, medications, allergy to the product) and most likely not my fault.

Causes



There are a number of reasons nails delaminate (the scientific for lifting), though there are just a few "main" causes.  The three factors that are the most likely cause of lifting are:

• Improper Prep
• Product touching skin
• Improper mix ratio (for acrylics) or improper curing (for gel nails)

Lets first take a look at these three possible causes:

Improper Prep

Prepping the natural nail is the first and arguably one of the most important steps in applying enhancements.  This is because it creates the foundation for what you do on top of it. Incompletely removing oils or non-living tissues on the entire nail plate will cause lifting. Etching the nail with a  coarse file can cause lifting by thinning out the nail and creating a weak base for the enhancement which then flexes away from the product with any pressure.

Product Touching Skin

If the product touches the skin at any time (even if you quickly wipe it away), it will wick the skin's oils and moisture into the product which can cause or exacerbate lifting.  I see many people on Instagram who tout themselves as educators who get product on the skin then use their brush to "clean up" around the nail.  Not only is this a major cause of lifting, but can cause dermatitis in the client!  It's better to get your application under control than to try and fix the mess afterwards.

Mix Ratio/Improper Curing

I have talked extensively about the reasons for proper mix ratio and the chemistry behind it in this post.  Basically, acrylic mix ratio is important for many reasons, one of which is that it can cause lifting if it is incorrect.  If the mix is too dry, it does not have time to adhere to the nail fully before hardening. When it is too wet, it can cause pocket lifting and is generally weaker than a properly made acrylic bead.  Not to mention, the chance of overexposure for the client!

With gel nails, you do not have to mix anything so mix ratio is not a factor.  however, it is extremely important that the correct UV/LED lamp with clean bulbs and appropriate cure time is being used  to cure the gel. gel feels hard within seconds but is NOT fully cured until the full cure time has been acheived.  Uncured gel can cause overexposure and dermatitis in clients and lead to a weak nail that does not fully adhere to the natural nail plate.

Other Causes

If you have lifting, checking the above three items should be first on your list.  If you find that they are not the issue, there is a wide variety of other factors that could cause or contribute to the problem, including:

• Clients who pick at their nails or are extremely hard on their nails
• Extension is too long for the client's natural nail and lifestyle
• Too much primer was used
• The product was applied too thick - thicker is not better and a thick enhancement can be too rigid while the natural nail will flex away from it with any kind of pressure.
• The tip doesn't fit the natural nail
• Tip adhesive breakdown
• Contaminated products
• Fresh monomer wasn't used with every client
• Mixing different manufacturers' products
• Smoking, eating, touching hair, etc. during application (playing with phones always leads to someone touching their nail!)
• Excessive filing of the enhancement - pressing too hard while filing can flex the softer natural nail away from the hard enhancement
• Mixing products between systems or brands 

Most of these are self explanatory, but lets talk about tips for a second.  Tips can loosen for several reasons, one reason is improper nail plate preparation prior to tip nail application. Another cause is improper fitting of the tip. Always measure the tip based on the width of the side walls, not the width of the natural free edge. The tip should not be able to be rocked side to side, the nail plate is the same width as the free edge, and the sides of the tip are coming out straight from the side groove.

A third (and most common) cause of tips loosening is the adhesive.  We have talked about adhesives in this blog before and the fact is that all nail adhesives are water soluble.  The thicker the adhesive, the slower they break down but they WILL break down eventually!  If you are lucky your client's nails grow fast and the tip will be gone (filed off during fills) before the issue shows itself.  If you arenot lucky you will start to see lifting at the point where the tip was adhered to the natural nail.

If you prefer to use tips over sculpting, make sure to pretailor the tip so that the minimal amount of adhesive is on the nail plate to create the strongest tip possible. Or you can use acrylic to apply tips for an even stronger nail.

Medications - Not a lifting Culprit!

Its been said for years that lifting might be casue by medicfatgions that the client is taking, however Doug Schoon has said that there is no evidence of this being true:  "This is not likely to be a problems and here’s why. Doctors often state that the health of the natural nail is often a window into the health of the individual. However, taking medication for a month or two isn’t going to affect adhesion of artificial nails or coatings to the nail plates. Same is true for birth control or other over-the-counter (OTC) medications. There are certain medications that when taken for long periods can affect the way the body functions and may affect nail growth. However, this is would be uncommon for medications in general. An example of medications that do affect nail plate growth are chemotherapy drugs. They can adversely affect the growth, but won’t change the way pre-existing natural nails adhere to the nail coating. In other words, they can’t affect the chemical structure of the nail plate once it has already grown from the nail matrix ... Also, if a person is taking a lot of medications and their nails are in poor condition, it is more likely that the condition of the nail plate is due to poor health of the body, and not the medications. For instance, those taking heart medication may also have blood pressure and circulation problems and these health issues are far more likely to adversely affect the condition of new nail growth, than would the medications themselves."

References/Resources

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40178/how-to-prevent-lifting

http://www.nailpro.com/stay-put/

https://www.facebook.com/doug.schoon/posts/10207874050993488

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/81954/the-truth-about-hormones-and-nails

http://schoonscientific.com/downloads/Myths-from-FB_2013-03-14.pdf

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/108430/what-to-do-when-extensions-just-won-t-stay-put

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40044/10-new-tech-troubles

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/107958/we-have-liftoff-troubleshooting-lifting-causes

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/108355/the-help-desk-has-answers-to-your-questions

Saving Your Own Nails

TIP OF THE WEEK #21 

SAVING YOUR OWN NAILS By Vicki Peters (circa 2000)

I know as well as anyone that as a professional nail tech our nails should look good all the time and that is nearly impossible. If your nails need a fill, are filed to a point and half the polish is off, when you go to the bank to make your deposit the bank teller, or anyone else for that matter, is not going to ask you where you get your nails done. We are a walking advertisement and our nails should look good all the time.

So here are some suggestions.

1. Make a standing appointment with a salon down the street and get them done. Enjoy having your nails done just like your clients do. Oh I can hear  it now, I don't like the way anyone else does my nails, I am so particular",  well get over it because having them done not quite to your liking is better  than not having them done at all.

2. Make a standing appointment with someone in your salon whose work you do  like and pay her for the appointment so you don't get bumped.

3. Wear them natural and buff them to a high shine. Nails are nails even if  you specialize in artificial nails.

4. Cover your acrylic nails after you polish them with gels to protect the  polish. Gel is acetone resistant and you can buff off the top layer to get to  the polish to remove it and do a fill.

5. Wearing tips that melt? Apply a layer of gel to the underside to protect  them.

6. Cover the nails you tend to file with the stretchy wrap made specifically  for this. Problem is it looks pretty tattered by the end of the day and you  have to remove it every time you wash and I am assuming your washing your  hands in between every client.

7. Do as I do - wear a bankers rubber finger on your thumb and index fingers  that get hit the most with files.

8. Remove the client's polish with the cotton in between your fingers,  between your first and second knuckle, keeping the cotton away from the tips  of your fingers.

9. Have the client use a polish remover machine.

10. Schedule time to do your nails at the end of each week when you're done  taking clients, before you go home.

I know this is a challenge, it is for everyone. But remember you are a  walking advertisement and if you do not have time, which most of us don't  make the time so you always are presentable. And if your going to a trade  show don't go unless you are wearing your very best work. We all inspect each

other's nails at shows and it is important that they look good. Trust me  everyone looks at mine at shows and even if someone else does my nails I tell  them I do them! Except when I am wearing nails from someone like Kym Lee  or  Tom Holcomb!

Vicki

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

Tricks of the Trade: Applying Nail Tips with Acrylic

TIP OF THE WEEK #14:  TIP APPLICATION IN ACRYLIC by Vicki Peters

Diana Bonn posed a question about a comment I recently made on the list about applying tips with acrylic instead of glue, when I was addressing the tips not holding up. Glue, gel glue and most bonding agents and resins are all cynoacrylates. Cynoacrylates break down in water and acrylics don't, that is a fact. So every time you wash your hands you're contributing to the breakdown of the glue you are wearing.

Now I am not stating that glue is not good - do not misunderstand me - what I am claiming is that acrylic is stronger and bonds longer to the natural nail.

I am a huge fan of cutting the wells out of tips, refining the smile lines and placing the edge of the tip on the edge of the nail. It is a cosmetic way of applying a tip that gives very little strength, the strength is in the overlay. If the overlay does not have a properly balanced overlay and is weak on the sides and stress are the tip will break. Same goes for a sculpture. So make sure your overlay is providing the structure not the tip. Applying the well-less tip on the edge of the natural nail with acrylic will give it more strength to stay on.

 

Here are three suggestions for applying tips with acrylic:

#1  Size out your tips and refine them if you choose to. You can use this method with or without wells, with natural colored tips and French white tips. Prep the nail plate just like you would for a sculptured nail, primer and all. Let the primer dry. One tip at a time turn the tip over so the underneath is facing up. Place a small amount of liquid and powder on the inside of the tip where the contact area is going to be on the nail - a thin layer across the entire edge of the tip. Use pink or clear powder. Place on the nail and hold into place until dry.   This takes a bit more time having to hold the tip while drying but the results will be better. When the tips are secure cut and shape the tips and continue with your overlay procedures.

#2  Another way to do this is to place a small ball of acrylic on the tip of the  natural nail and spread it over the entire edge of the nail. Then press the tip into the acrylic. Again you must hold the tip in place until it is dry. Too much acrylic will squish out and not enough will not give enough strength. When the tips are secure, cut and shape the tips and continue with your overlay procedures.

#3 The third way to apply tips in acrylic is to overlay the entire natural nail with pink powder. Before the acrylic is dry press a white French tip onto the very tip of the acrylic on the natural nail and let dry. Apply the cuticle area very thin or not completely up to the cuticle area. Once you have done this on all ten nails cut and shape the parameter of the tips. Then overlay the entire nail with clear acrylic, right over the pink you already applied with a thin coat and over the white tip. Be sure to view from the side to make sure you have not applied too much clear acrylic on the nail bed and not enough on the tip.

Ok so mow another tip: there is no need to take the shine of the tips once you have applied them. The acrylic will stick to them anyway - however whenever applying gels and fibgerglass you may want to take a white block and remove the shine.

Vicki

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

 

 [JZ Note: be careful not to "squish out" the acrylic - when you apply the tip you gently set it on the nail and hold, not rock it on like when using adhesive.  My nail mentor - Terri Lundberg - described it like landing a plane - you "land" the tip very gently and then hold it until dry.  This  technique also gives a fantastic arch to very flat nails (and fills in the gap between the tip and nail)!]

Tips vs. Forms

Now that we know more about tips and forms, how do you choose which one to use? Again, personal preference is part of the equation, but there are also pros and cons that should be considered and as part of the client intake it is important to match the method of application with the client’s needs and lifestyle.

Using Tips
Pros: Using tips gives a consistent look from nail to nail. Easier to master. Generally easier to shape than sculptures as they are softer to file. Clients are more familiar with them. Super easy French manicures when using white tips.

Cons: Faulty tip application will undermine product performance. Nail adhesive will inherently break down faster than the overlay, causing separation of the tips from the natural nails. Tips are not meant to be the "strength" of the nail which means that nails tend to be a bit thicker as you have the thickness of the tip as well as the thickness of the overlay product. Not solvent resistant (nail techs often end up with strangely shaped nails as solvents eat away at the tips). Blending the tip takes time and if not done carefully can damage the natural nail. It is very rare for a tip to fit a nail perfectly, and many tips will require some refinement and adjustment on your part which takes more time.

Regarding the fact that adhesive breaks down with exposure to moisture – you can avoid this issue by applying your tips with acrylic (will not work with gel) - Place a wet ball of acrylic in the well of the tip and place the tip at a 45 degree angle pressing it firmly against the edge of the natural nail and slowly roll it forward creating a squeegee effect but not so firm that you squeeze out all of the acrylic. You will need to hold the tip until the acrylic is set.

Using Forms (“sculpting”):
Pros: No adhesive to break down over time. Can be thinner than tips as you don’t have the bulk of the tip under the product. Better solvent resistance than tips. Once mastered, are generally faster to apply than a properly applied and blended tip. Generally better for nail biters because the moisture in the nails of biters break down adhesive and also the thick skin on the edge of a nail biters fingers will often push the tip off the nail or create a “ski jump” look to the nail.

Cons: Harder to master. Often takes longer when starting due to not having the guideline of the tip to apply the product on top of. Clients unfamiliar with them and don’t often ask for them.

Some techs charge more for nails sculptured on forms. This is once again a personal preference – some techs just don’t like sculpting and charge more to discourage that choice. Others charge more because it takes them longer. Still others charge more because not many people offer the service and so you have the “supply and demand” equation. You need to do what you feel is appropriate in your salon and area. [Opinion: I never charge more for one or the other because I want to be able to give my clients the best possible service as *I* see it, without them worrying that I am trying to nickel and dime them. I also charge the same for gel/acrylic/wraps for the same reason.]

Join the conversation: Which do you prefer and why? What other Pros and Cons are there for either method?

Applying and Blending Tips

After you PREP the nail you are ready to either apply tips or apply sculpting forms. Lets discuss tips.

Not all tips are created equal and you cannot use one style of tips on every person. Look at your client's natural c-curve to determine which tip to use. If you have someone with a flat nail you will NOT be able to use a tip with a high arch and vice versa. The tip should fit easily from
lateral wall to lateral wall of the natural nail and should encase the natural nail free edge exactly. Shape the natural nail to fit into the well of the tip.

Next you want to pre-tailor the tip and thin the well. There is absolutely no reason for the tip to cover more than 1/3 of the nail with a tip - remember the tip is the weak link in a nail enhancement so the less you have attached, the better. And the more filing you do before you apply it means the less you have to do when its attached to your client and the less chance you have for damage. You can see the pre-tailoring on the video I reference below.

Apply the tip with your choice of adhesive. (I will be writing a post at some point about adhesives and will add the link to the comments of this post.) There are many ways to apply tips but I prefer to apply the adhesive to the tip well and then but it up to the natural nail and "rock" it down to the nail plate.

Once the nail adhesive is dry, clip the nail to the desired length, file to shape (we will discuss shapes in a different post) and then it is time to blend the nail tip. The only tip you do not need to blend is a colored or white french tip but for a natural tip you want to get rid of that line. I also blend clear tips but that's a personal preference because I feel like you can see the shiny line of the well. Once again there are many opinions out there about blending/not blending but #1 it looks more natural (yes this is my opinion but I've never heard anyone disagree!) and #2 it thins the plastic and gives you more room for the actual enhancement product which is the strength of your service.

Blending: This is a hard one to describe but there are many videos out there that show blending (including the one below) - but the main thing to remember is that you want to avoid damaging the natural nail. You should do all your blending on the TIP, not on the natural nail itself and as you get more and more blended, switch to a finer file just in case you hit the natural nail. Yes, once again, if you are *properly trained* and use the correct bits you can do this with an electric file

I know a lot of people are enamored with well-less tips but what they do not realize is that tips with wells are engineered to encase the natural free edge to help prevent tip separation If you look very closely at the underside of a tip well you will see that the ridge is slightly angled inward to hold the natural free edge. Cool, huh?

You can see a great demo by FingerNailFixer below