Saturday, November 28, 2015

Enhancement Aftercare for Clients

One of the most important things you can do to ensure the integrity of your client's nail enhancements is to train them on caring for their new nails.  Just because this is not the first time someone has had nails does not mean you should skip the maintenance talk - clients who have frequented discount salons or do their nails at home are often not aware of proper maintenance and even clients who have had their nails done by good techs over the years often tend to forget what they should be doing (they do not live and breathe nails like we do!)

If you choose to guarantee your nails will last a certain length of time, it should be with the caveat that clients are doing their home maintenance (at a minimum, a good quality cuticle oil daily!  This helps keep the enhancement plasticized and the cuticles soft.). The tech and the client are partners in keeping the nails looking good.  You can't do your part effectively without the client doing theirs.

When I was active in the salon I would keep mini cuticle oils in my desk and each full set would get an oil and instructions.  This way I can control which oil they use (no mineral oil!) and clients like to get "free" stuff (of course I do work the cost of the oil into the full set). Also, if they are using their oils, they will need to buy one from you at the next fill, so you will have a retail sale AND you will know if they are following instructions or not.

Below are some examples of handouts given to new clients that I have collected over the years (can also be used as wall posters). Some of these are from the Beautytech.com message board.  I encourage you use what works for you and re-write what does not. The FAQ's at the bottom are great to laminate and keep in your waiting area.


These are MY 10 commandments that I felt were of importance to MY clients. You may have
others to include. Here goes: I shall: 
1. Apply solar oil to my cuticles daily (maybe even twice a day) 
2. Use hand cream or lotion often during the day (and especially at bedtime) 
3. Wear rubber gloves when exposing my hands to water or cleaning products (I'll try really hard on this one) 
4. Wear gloves when doing yard work (especially when I dig in dirt)
5. NOT pick at my acrylic/gel/polish (wow-that's asking a lot) 
6. NOT pick at my cuticles (it ruins the look of my nails) 
7. Brush under the free edge daily (that is part of the look of my nails, also) 
8.Refresh my polish with topcoat every 2 days - keeping it shiny (this is an easy one) 
9. NOT use my nails as tools, scrapers or levers (i'll find an appropriate substitute) 
10. Keep my appointments at 2-week intervals (makes my nail tech happy and keeps my nails looking their best)
There you have it- works for me. I think it makes the client a little more aware of their home maintenance when they see something in writing.



Believe it or not, when I saw your previous listing of your '10 commandments' I had to laugh. Just a
few days before I thought it would be a neat idea to do that too, and I wrote up my own '10
commandments'. I drew an old scroll and placed the 10 commandments in them. Hadn't thought of
running off copies and giving them to each client though, that is a neat idea. Here they are (I thought
it would be cuter if they were in the style of the 1611 King James Version):
1) Thou shalt wear gloves.
2) Thou shalt not pick at nails or cuticle area.
3) Thou shalt exfoliate once weekly, and replenish your skin with lotion or cream in abundance.
4) Thou shalt apply cuticle oil no less than once daily.
5) Thou shalt use the retail that thou hast purchased.(ever get the feeling that what they buy gets 'collected' at home?)
6) Thou shalt not use thy nails as tools, find a proper substitute.
7) Thou shalt not cut 'cuticles'.
8) Thou shalt clip hangnails, not pull them.
9) Thou shalt buff nails that peel, and wear your top coat (see commandment 5).
10)Thus sayeth the Nail Technician: Let nothing come between me and thee (in other words keep
your appointments) - and thou shalt have Beautiful Hands!

I know, may be a little corny at times, but they get the point along with a good laugh!

Caring for Your New Nails at Home

In caring for your new nails, you may need to modify some bad habits. Your new nails are strong, but not unbreakable.  The less pressure put on your new nails, the longer they will last. Just as playing with a paper clip by bending it back and forth will eventually break it, your nails will also break with repeated stress. They can only take so much pressure before they crack and/or break.You will need to treat them properly to keep them looking great for a long time.
  • Apply Solar Oil to your cuticles every day. The oil penetrates your cuticle for healthier skin and promotes flexibility in your nails. The application encourages growth in the matrix area. 
  • Be very deliberate when using your hands. Start using the ball of your finger and your knuckles instead of your nails. 
  • Always use the proper tool! Your nails were NOT created to be used as a screwdriver, can opener, and the ultimate-unwedger-of-all-things!
  • Do not put your nails in harsh chemicals such as cleaning products. Wear gloves when gardening, washing dishes, and any heavy duty cleaning.
  • Do not leave your hands in water for long periods of time. Water eventually breaks down just about everything including nail adhesive.
  • Apply hand cream whenever you wash your hands. This will help to keep your skin looking healthy and promote flexibility in your nails.  


How Long Will They Last?
Your new nails will need to be maintained every 2 to 3 weeks. Maintenance work takes approximately 60 minutes and includes re-filing and re-shaping of the nail, repair of up to 2 broken nails repairing any cracking or lifting nails, fill-in and rebalance of new growth, and polish, if desired. When you do come in for any nail service, please remove your polish before your appointment. By having your nails regularly maintained, you will avoid most of the problems associated with artificial enhancements. In fact, most problems associated with artificial enhancements are caused by improper maintenance.


Congratulations on your beautiful nails!

Below are some tips that will help keep them looking beautiful longer:
  • Remember this above all: treat your nails like jewels, not tools! 
  • Wear gloves when you do housework and gardening. 
  • Use a tool for opening soda cans or other nail-destroyers. 
  • Learn to do things with the pads of your fingers rather than your nails. 
  • Never do anything that would put pressure on the tips of your nails. 
  • We all love to soak in the tub or spa, but your nails don't. 
Natural Nails Maintenance:
Carry a very fine grit emery board with you to smooth out any snags you may develop between appointments. Nothing drives you crazier than a small snag that keeps catching on things. Every day, massage some oil into your cuticles. Every other day, use a top coat to keep your polish looking nice longer. Should you decide to change your own polish, make sure you remove all traces of oil and moisture before polishing the nails. This will allow the polish to last longer on your natural nails. Make sure to use a base and a top coat.

Acrylic Enhancements Maintenance:
You should get your acrylics re-balanced every two weeks. If you break or crack a nail, or it begins to lift, come in to see me as soon as you can. I do not charge for up to two repairs on full sets or re-balances on full sets originally created by me (within two weeks). Please don’t use a bandage on a lifted nail, as it will trap quite a bit of unwanted moisture. Moisture underneath a lifting nail can start the growth of a type of bacteria called Pseudomonas. Its pretty much harmless, but not very pretty. The by-product of this bacteria is a green color that some people mistakenly call “mold” or even “fungus”, which, of course, is inaccurate. If you see this on a nail, come in to have me remove the nail and stop the bacterial growth.

Make sure any lotion or cuticle oil that you use to keep your hands and cuticles soft and moisturized does NOT contain mineral oil or lanolin. Mineral oil and lanolin are the primary suspects in lifting of acrylic nails. The best thing to use on your nails is Solar Oil by Creative Nail Design.

If you decide you want to remove your enhancements, please, please do not bite or pry them off! This will damage the nail plate (not to mention it will look horrible). Please call me and I will either schedule a time to remove them for you and give you a mini-manicure, or explain how you can remove them yourself with minimal damage to your natural nails.


Client Home Care Guidelines
In order to maintain your Nail Enhancements for long-term wear-ability, please read and follow these simple guidelines.
  • Oil nails twice per day to maintain inherent flexibility. Product that is allowed to become brittle will crack and break. 
  • Repetitive or severe pressure on the nail extension will lead to cracks that result in full-blown breaks. Treat your nails as jewels, not tools! 
  • Nails that are too long for your lifestyle and activity level (repetitive downward tip pressure) result in service breakdown. If your nails become too long between appointments, shorten the length with the 240-grit file. 
  • Properly applied product will shrink when cured and create an airtight seal. Mechanical forcing of product through extreme pressure, picking or nipping rough edges will result in lifting. Use a 240- grit file to remove rough edges or blend any lifting into the natural nail plate. Holding the file flat to the area of lift, gently file in the direction of the lifted material until the area of lift is removed. Do not over-file! Over-filing removes vital nail plate layers and will weaken the natural nail foundation. To re-seal the product, massage a drop of oil into the nail surface, then buff to a dull shine with the 360-grit buffer. 
  • When changing polish between maintenance appointments, remove polish with regular polish remover. Non-acetone polish remover requires more time to soften polish, thereby remaining on the product surface, softening and weakening the surface layer. After the polish has been removed, wash hands and scrub nails with a soft toothbrush. Apply cuticle oil to the product surface and massage into the cuticles and overlay. Using the 360-buffer, buff the oil into the nail surface to re-seal the product. Apply one thin coat of base coat, two thin coats of polish and a thin application of topcoat, allowing the layers to dry between coatings.
  • Greenies are caused by an air-borne bacteria  trapped between the overlay and the nail plate layers. These bacteria require food to eat and moisture to grow. The nail plate layers contain oil and moisture. Should any lifting occur between visits, buff away the area of lift - do not attempt to glue the lifted area. Most instant glues are not moisture resistant. Instant glue also sets-up the instant it is exposed to air and cannot ‘re-seal’ lifted material and may incorporate air-borne bacteria into the area of lift. The bacteria will be trapped between the nail plate and the overlay, utilizing the natural nail oils as food and the moisture to grow. The results are a greenish to brownish stain on the nail plate. The stain is a by-product of the infection. Should any area of lift be too large to remove by filing, or visible discoloration is present, please call for a nail repair appointment. 
  • To prevent the spread of communicable diseases, never share your files or implements with others. 
Client FAQ's
1. "Can artificial nails ruin my real nails?" - Wearing nail enhancements will not cause damage to your natural nails. The only way damage can occur is if your nail technician caused damage during application or if some outside force caused damage such as slamming your finger in a door, running your nails into things often, etc. It is not the actual products that ruin your natural nails
  •  Improper removal of the enhancements - The natural nail can become thin and weak. It is important to have your enhancements removed by a professional should you want them removed for any reason. If you really must remove them yourself, call your nail tech and she can tell you how to do it safely.  Damaging or "popping off" a nail - This will cause some of the top layers of the natural nail to come off, leaving it thin and weak.
  •  Bumping nails into things - Even if you don't see a problem right away, every time you run your nail(s) into something it weakens the hold of the product on the nail and will eventually cause the nail to come off. Carrying boxes is also a BIG problem, always be very careful when doing this.
  • Over filing - In order to apply enhancements the natural nail only needs buffed enough to remove the shine and oils so the product will adhere.
2. "I bite my nails, is there anything that can really help me?" A lot of people have acrylic nails applied for that very reason. They are much tougher than natural nails which makes biting them much harder to do. In addition, the very idea that you now have nice nails (which many nail biters may have never had) is an added deterrent and will help to remind you not to bite. This is a wonderful way to have long beautiful nails.

3. "Why would somebody want to spend that much money for artificial nails?!" There are many reasons a person would want nail enhancements:
  • They look good. The hands are one of the first things others see about us, and well-manicured nails and/or nail enhancements often help to make a good first impression.
  • Nail biters often find they are able to kick the nail biting habit much easier than without enhancements. If they decide not to continue wearing them once the biting is stopped they have that option. Often they decide to keep them because they like the way they look!
  • To lengthen the nails. Often, a person can grow their nails long but then have the problem of breakage, or maybe your nails don't seem to grow out as you would like. Enhancements are tougher than natural nails, you can have them any length you like them to be, and can change the length any time without waiting for them to grow out again. And with enhancements, if one does break or crack they can be easily repaired right away!
  • Some people have naturally thin, weak or brittle nails. Nail enhancements are stronger and tougher, and also provide protection for this type of natural nail.
4. " What if I decide I don't want to spend the money on nails anymore?" I suggest you come in and have your nails removed professionally. I soak your nails in a solution to remove the acrylic and send you home with a Maintenance Kit.

5. "I have to have my acrylic (or fiberglass or silk, etc.) nails taken off every 3 months so my real nails can breathe." Absolutely false. “Real nails” are not living tissue. They do not need to breathe. You can keep your enhancements on as long or as short a time as you prefer. I know many people personally that have worn acrylic nails several years without ever having them removed (with proper periodic maintenance and home care!), with no adverse effects.

6. " Why are my nails yellow?" There are many reasons nails may become yellow. Some reasons are cigarette smoking, tanning lotions/UV light, cheap polish and not using a good base coat. Make sure you always use a good base coat before applying any color polish. If you smoke, try holding the cigarette in a manner that will not allow the smoke to waft up on and around the nails on the fingers you hold it with. As for cheap polish, get a good salon brand polish. They do cost a bit more but are of a much better quality than even the best over the counter brands. If you tan, make sure and wash off any tanning lotions you may get on your nails as soon as possible, especially if you tan in a tanning bed. The lotions made for tanning beds usually contain ingredients to help speed up a tan.

7. "I could get AIDS from having my nails done!" Since the beginning of the HIV epidemic in 1981 at least 3 billion nail services have been perform in the US alone. Never once has anyone even been suspected of getting an HIV infection from a salon service. Since the odds of being killed by a shark are estimated to be 1 in 2 million and the odds of being killed by a dog are 1 in 700,000... you are best advised to stay out of the ocean and wear full body armor when you go to the park. HIV infections are not spread by salon services. It has never happened and I doubt it ever will. There are several destructive forces in our industry who profit from your fear. They believe that the more afraid the public and nail techs become, the more disinfectant they will sell. These person(s) have actively lobbied many of the State Boards and filled them with these irrational fears.

The main thing to remember is to go to a salon that practices good sanitation. If the implements, files, etc. are sanitized, as they should be, you will not contract any infection or fungus from a salon. You must also take care of your nails at home to help prevent getting an infection. Use gloves when gardening to keep out germ-filled soil, when using dirty mop water, or washing dishes. You would be surprised how many germs you come in contact with in a day’s work. Keep your nails clean and take these precautions and you should not have problems with infection. This is a good rule to follow any time, not just when you have nail enhancements.

                         

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