Monday, September 7, 2015

Tips vs. Forms

Now that we know more about tips and forms, how do you choose which one to use? Again, personal preference is part of the equation, but there are also pros and cons that should be considered and as part of the client intake it is important to match the method of application with the client’s needs and lifestyle.

Using Tips
Pros: Using tips gives a consistent look from nail to nail. Easier to master. Generally easier to shape than sculptures as they are softer to file. Clients are more familiar with them. Super easy French manicures when using white tips.
Cons: Faulty tip application will undermine product performance. Nail adhesive will inherently break down faster than the overlay, causing separation of the tips from the natural nails. Tips are not meant to be the "strength" of the nail which means that nails tend to be a bit thicker as you have the thickness of the tip as well as the thickness of the overlay product. Not solvent resistant (nail techs often end up with strangely shaped nails as solvents eat away at the tips). Blending the tip takes time and if not done carefully can damage the natural nail. It is very rare for a tip to fit a nail perfectly, and many tips will require some refinement and adjustment on your part which takes more time.
Regarding the fact that adhesive breaks down with exposure to moisture – you can avoid this issue by applying your tips with acrylic (will not work with gel) - Place a wet ball of acrylic in the well of the tip and place the tip at a 45 degree angle pressing it firmly against the edge of the natural nail and slowly roll it forward creating a squeegee effect but not so firm that you squeeze out all of the acrylic. You will need to hold the tip until the acrylic is set.

Using Forms (“sculpting”):
Pros: No adhesive to break down over time. Can be thinner than tips as you don’t have the bulk of the tip under the product. Better solvent resistance than tips. Once mastered, are generally faster to apply than a properly applied and blended tip. Generally better for nail biters because the moisture in the nails of biters break down adhesive and also the thick skin on the edge of a nail biters fingers will often push the tip off the nail or create a “ski jump” look to the nail.
Cons: Harder to master. Often takes longer when starting due to not having the guideline of the tip to apply the product on top of. Clients unfamiliar with them and don’t often ask for them.
Some techs charge more for nails sculptured on forms. This is once again a personal preference – some techs just don’t like sculpting and charge more to discourage that choice. Others charge more because it takes them longer. Still others charge more because not many people offer the service and so you have the “supply and demand” equation. You need to do what you feel is appropriate in your salon and area. [Opinion: I never charge more for one or the other because I want to be able to give my clients the best possible service as *I* see it, without them worrying that I am trying to nickel and dime them. I also charge the same for gel/acrylic/wraps for the same reason.]

Join the conversation: Which do you prefer and why? What other Pros and Cons are there for either method?

12 comments:

  1. Won't the sculpted nails break easily ?

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    1. Not at all, as a matter of fact they tend to be stronger because they are solid product and don't have the weakness of the adhesive used on nail tips. Adhesive has a much weaker bond to the nail than product and adhesive will eventually break down in water, while product will not, necessitating removal and replacement.

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    2. Is there any place that I can get a set of sculptured nails done? I have always had the sculptured nails,but the lady that did them just quit and left me with nobody.I have been trying to find someone to do them again, but No Luck..I miss my sculptured nails,so I have no nails anymore I'M SO SAD PLEASE CAN SOMEBODY HELP ME...

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    3. Unfortunately there is no database of techs anywhere that we can look up who does what :( The only way you are going to be able to find a technician who does sculptures is to call around to salons in your area and ask.

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  2. Oh and I believe they make the sculpted sets more expensive because it uses more product than the tip and overlay.

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    1. They really don't - if you take into account the cost of tips and adhesive vs the small amount of extra product you use and paper nail forms, its pretty much a wash. They tend to charge more because it requires more skill as a nail tech than tip/overlays. Plus you get much more waste with a tip than you get with sculpting

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  3. Which is better for your nails. I got acrylics for about a year and a half and once I took them off. They were extremely weakk and damaged. It tooks months for my natural nails to get back to "normal". What would you reccomend if I want to get them done

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    1. Neither tips nor sculptures are "better" or "worse" for your nails - what is important is a high quality nail technician who will ensure the health of the natural nail. Nail damage is caused by improper application, improper maintenance and improper removal. It is extremely important to ask questions before you decide who you allow to do your nails. What training do they have beyond basic training? How do they ensure the ongoing health of the natural nail? How do they remove nails? A high quality, reputable nail tech will be more than happy to discuss these issues with you.

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  4. I've never had forms used on my nails and have only had tips used for acrylic nails. The acrylic nails and tips did ruin my nails but so did SNS and gel nails, so I'm not really sure which procedure is the best or if they're all just as bad for my nails since my nails broke terribly with the gel nails. I probably should not have any procedure done to my nails, but I can't seem to go long enough for my nails to recoup and become strong on their own again without them breaking down so much that they bleed, so I think I'm just going back to acrylic nails with tips at my next visit to the nail salon and see what happens from there.

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    1. It sounds like you need to do more due diligence on choosing your nail technician. Nails should NEVER break and bleed after the nails are removed. Products don't damage nails, the only way a nail can be damaged is by improper application, improper maintenance and improper removal. Unfortunately the training in the industry nowadays leaves a lot to be desired and I estimate 80% or more of nail technicians are poorly trained. This is why it is important to ask questions before you decide who you allow to do your nails. What re their sanitation routines? What training do they have beyond basic training? How do they ensure the ongoing health of the natural nail? How do they remove nails? A high quality, reputable nail tech will be more than happy to discuss these issues with you.

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  5. I'm just starting with acrylic and my personal pet peeve is when acrylic nails look bulky, its why I've advoided them until now and have preferred polish or gels... that said would you say you must always learn both ways or can I just learn sculpting first and then maybe tips later on?

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    1. Its good to have a full repertoire to offer clients but some nail techs do specialize and there is nothing saying that you "have" to learn to do tips, unless your regulatory body requires it - fir instance in order for me to get my license I had to do a practical test demonstrating that I knew how to do both tip/overlay and sculptured nails.

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