Once and For All, UV Lamps are SAFE

In November, 2008, a study was published that claimed that UV Nail Lamps caused cancer. In this study two healthy women with no family history of skin cancer developed melanoma after repeated use of nail salon UV lamps. Of course, the internet grabbed on to this story and ran with it. The problem is, the study was faulty. First of all, the sample size was 2 people. Two. Both who live in Texas - which, if you don’t know, is a very sunny southern state in the US. The study also made faulty conclusions based on the UV output of tanning beds, which are significantly stronger than the UV output of nail lamps and they assumed the UV-A energy exposure from nail lamps would fall within the estimated range determined to be potentially carcinogenic.

Since then, at least three additional studies have been completed, all coming to the conclusion that UV Nail lamps are indeed safe.

Three Scientific Studies Agree – UV Nail Lamps Are Safe!

The Lighting Sciences study in 2010 concluded that “UV-B output is less than what occurs in natural sunlight and is equal to what a person could expect from spending an extra 17 to 26 seconds in sunlight each day during the two weeks between nail salon appointments” and “UV-A exposure is equivalent to spending an extra 1.5 to 2.7 minutes in sunlight each day between salon visits, depending on the type of UV nail lamp used.”

https://probeauty.org/docs/nmc/U...

In December, 2012, The Massachusetts General Hospital /Alpert Medical School at Brown University study concluded that "Nail lamps are safe for over 250 years of weekly manicures, and even then there would be a low risk of skin cancer”. They also concluded that “Although some sources of UVA and UVB contribute to the development of KCs [keratinocyte carcinoma], UV nail lamps do not appear to significantly increase the lifetime risk of KC. Dermatologists and primary-care physicians may reassure patients regarding the safety of these devices.”

UV Nail Lamps Safe, Study Suggests

Journal of Investigative Dermatology

Risk of Skin Cancer Associated with the Use of UV Nail Lamp

Testing by Sayre and Dowdy in July 2013 found that found that UV nail lights were even safer than expected. “All of the various UV nail lamps submitted for evaluation were found to be significantly less hazardous than might have been anticipated based on the initial concerns raised…” They also confirmed that UV nail lamps are NOT equivalent to tanning beds or indoor tanning lamps, largely because nail lamps use vastly different types of UV bulbs which produce different ranges of wavelengths with significantly lower intensities.

In addition, “The study demonstrates that UV exposure is so low that a worker could put their hand under a UV nail lamp from this study for 25 minutes each day without exceeding established internationally accepted safe limits or ‘permissible daily exposures’.”

In numerous interviews and research, Dr. Sayre has stated that the use of UV nail lamps does not contribute to the risk of getting skin cancer and that the emissions from UV nail lamps are safer than that of natural sunlight.

Nail curing UV lamps: Trivial exposure not cause for public alarm

Photobiological safety evaluation of UV nail lamps.

In 2013, The Skin Cancer Foundation put out an official statement that “even the most intense of these devices presents only a moderate UV risk – a far lower risk than that presented by UV tanning devices”. Of course, to play it safe, they still recommend sunscreen, as they do with any UV exposure.

The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Official Position on UV Light and Manicure Safety

---

So, in conclusion, UV lamps are completely safe. There is no evidence that these lamps cause cancer and there has never been a cancer case proven to have come from these lamps in the 30+ years they have been in use. You may wish to mitigate risk by wearing sunscreen if desired.

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Lifting nails

You apply a beautiful let of nail enhancements and when your client comes back in 2 weeks you see lifting!  What went wrong?

from http://www.nailsmag.com

Assessing the Nail

First, lets assess the nail - where is the lifting occurring?  Is it at the cuticle?  Is it at the point where the tip meets the natural nail?  Is it along the sidewalls?  Is there a lot of lifting or just a little bit? Is it on all fingers or just one or two? 

By assessing the issues, we can narrow down the cause.  For instance, if the nail is lifting at the cuticle, the issue is not with the tip application.  If the lifting is at the sidewalls, but the cuticle is not lifted, I would take a look at my preparation of the sidewall area and confirm that my product is not flooding the area.  If every single nail is lifted half way from the cuticle up the nail plate, then I know it is a bigger issue than just accidentally bad prep on one nail. Its possible the extension is too long for the natural nail but it could be a systemic issue with the client or my mix ratio or a number of other things.  If only one client has issues and no one else does, then I know its something to do with her (body chemistry, picking, medications, allergy to the product) and most likely not my fault.

Causes



There are a number of reasons nails delaminate (the scientific for lifting), though there are just a few "main" causes.  The three factors that are the most likely cause of lifting are:

• Improper Prep
• Product touching skin
• Improper mix ratio (for acrylics) or improper curing (for gel nails)

Lets first take a look at these three possible causes:

Improper Prep

Prepping the natural nail is the first and arguably one of the most important steps in applying enhancements.  This is because it creates the foundation for what you do on top of it. Incompletely removing oils or non-living tissues on the entire nail plate will cause lifting. Etching the nail with a  coarse file can cause lifting by thinning out the nail and creating a weak base for the enhancement which then flexes away from the product with any pressure.

Product Touching Skin

If the product touches the skin at any time (even if you quickly wipe it away), it will wick the skin's oils and moisture into the product which can cause or exacerbate lifting.  I see many people on Instagram who tout themselves as educators who get product on the skin then use their brush to "clean up" around the nail.  Not only is this a major cause of lifting, but can cause dermatitis in the client!  It's better to get your application under control than to try and fix the mess afterwards.

Mix Ratio/Improper Curing

I have talked extensively about the reasons for proper mix ratio and the chemistry behind it in this post.  Basically, acrylic mix ratio is important for many reasons, one of which is that it can cause lifting if it is incorrect.  If the mix is too dry, it does not have time to adhere to the nail fully before hardening. When it is too wet, it can cause pocket lifting and is generally weaker than a properly made acrylic bead.  Not to mention, the chance of overexposure for the client!

With gel nails, you do not have to mix anything so mix ratio is not a factor.  however, it is extremely important that the correct UV/LED lamp with clean bulbs and appropriate cure time is being used  to cure the gel. gel feels hard within seconds but is NOT fully cured until the full cure time has been acheived.  Uncured gel can cause overexposure and dermatitis in clients and lead to a weak nail that does not fully adhere to the natural nail plate.

Other Causes

If you have lifting, checking the above three items should be first on your list.  If you find that they are not the issue, there is a wide variety of other factors that could cause or contribute to the problem, including:

• Clients who pick at their nails or are extremely hard on their nails
• Extension is too long for the client's natural nail and lifestyle
• Too much primer was used
• The product was applied too thick - thicker is not better and a thick enhancement can be too rigid while the natural nail will flex away from it with any kind of pressure.
• The tip doesn't fit the natural nail
• Tip adhesive breakdown
• Contaminated products
• Fresh monomer wasn't used with every client
• Mixing different manufacturers' products
• Smoking, eating, touching hair, etc. during application (playing with phones always leads to someone touching their nail!)
• Excessive filing of the enhancement - pressing too hard while filing can flex the softer natural nail away from the hard enhancement
• Mixing products between systems or brands 

Most of these are self explanatory, but lets talk about tips for a second.  Tips can loosen for several reasons, one reason is improper nail plate preparation prior to tip nail application. Another cause is improper fitting of the tip. Always measure the tip based on the width of the side walls, not the width of the natural free edge. The tip should not be able to be rocked side to side, the nail plate is the same width as the free edge, and the sides of the tip are coming out straight from the side groove.

A third (and most common) cause of tips loosening is the adhesive.  We have talked about adhesives in this blog before and the fact is that all nail adhesives are water soluble.  The thicker the adhesive, the slower they break down but they WILL break down eventually!  If you are lucky your client's nails grow fast and the tip will be gone (filed off during fills) before the issue shows itself.  If you arenot lucky you will start to see lifting at the point where the tip was adhered to the natural nail.

If you prefer to use tips over sculpting, make sure to pretailor the tip so that the minimal amount of adhesive is on the nail plate to create the strongest tip possible. Or you can use acrylic to apply tips for an even stronger nail.

Medications - Not a lifting Culprit!

Its been said for years that lifting might be casue by medicfatgions that the client is taking, however Doug Schoon has said that there is no evidence of this being true:  "This is not likely to be a problems and here’s why. Doctors often state that the health of the natural nail is often a window into the health of the individual. However, taking medication for a month or two isn’t going to affect adhesion of artificial nails or coatings to the nail plates. Same is true for birth control or other over-the-counter (OTC) medications. There are certain medications that when taken for long periods can affect the way the body functions and may affect nail growth. However, this is would be uncommon for medications in general. An example of medications that do affect nail plate growth are chemotherapy drugs. They can adversely affect the growth, but won’t change the way pre-existing natural nails adhere to the nail coating. In other words, they can’t affect the chemical structure of the nail plate once it has already grown from the nail matrix ... Also, if a person is taking a lot of medications and their nails are in poor condition, it is more likely that the condition of the nail plate is due to poor health of the body, and not the medications. For instance, those taking heart medication may also have blood pressure and circulation problems and these health issues are far more likely to adversely affect the condition of new nail growth, than would the medications themselves."

References/Resources

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40178/how-to-prevent-lifting

http://www.nailpro.com/stay-put/

https://www.facebook.com/doug.schoon/posts/10207874050993488

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/81954/the-truth-about-hormones-and-nails

http://schoonscientific.com/downloads/Myths-from-FB_2013-03-14.pdf

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/108430/what-to-do-when-extensions-just-won-t-stay-put

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40044/10-new-tech-troubles

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/107958/we-have-liftoff-troubleshooting-lifting-causes

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/108355/the-help-desk-has-answers-to-your-questions

Soft (Soak-off) Gel vs Hard Gel

We have discussed the chemistry of hard gel nails and how gel nails interact with UV/LED lamps. In this post I am going to compare soak off gels (SOG) - aka soft gels or gel polish - with what we know about gel nail enhancements - aka hard gels.

Image courtesy of nsinails.com

In very basic terms, "hard gels" are the original gel nail enhancements - they are clear, hard, non-porous, flexible and must be removed by soaking off.  They are highly non-porous and solvent resistant, which is why they must be filed off, but that also means that it is almost unheard of for them to yellow due to staining or with exposure to chemicals or sun.

Soft gel/ soak off gel/ hybrid gel polish is very flexible, thin, generally require only minimal nail preparation before application, and most times are not build-able (though there are brands now making soak off gel builders and Biosculpture has made build-able soak off colored gels for over 25 years).   

Hard gels and soak off gels have a very similar base - however soak-off gels are a specifically designed and formulated acrylate base with a higher molecular weight which results in an elongated molecular structure. This creates space between the cross-linking agents and the oligomers allowing penetration of solvents which break down the gel.

UV/LED lamps work the same with soak off gels as they do with hard gels.  And as with hard gels, using one lamp for all products is risky because you run the risk of under- or over-curing. You may not even realize the gel is under-cured (it will look hard on top well before it’s actually done fully curing), so you could unknowingly be exposing the client to uncured product, which can cause adverse skin reactions.  I cannot stress this enough.  Please read my posts on lamps (part 2 here)

One very interesting quality about soak off gels is that they actually get harder to remove the longer they are on the natural nail (per Doug Schoon, president of Schoon Scientific and renowned nail industry chemist).  Just like any nail enhancement, they should be maintained every 2-3 weeks. And remember, that not all enhancements work for all people. so if a client can't get more than a few days of of wear out of a soak off gel, they might want to consider as stronger enhancement. I know this from personal experience - I can usually get 1-2 days of wear out or regular nail polish on my natural nails and gel polish gives me 3-4 days, if I'm lucky,

As with any nail enhancement (and they ARE enhancements, even if they are not mean to be worn as long as a hard gel), improper preparation and improper removal can still damage the natural nail, as many clients have unfortunately found out. “Gel-polish should come off easily with no heavy-handed or forceful scraping,” says Doug Schoon. “If you have to force the product off at all, you are doing something wrong.”

Courtesy of Doug Schoon

References/Resources

http://www.nsinails.com/nail-lab/science-of-beauty/differences-between-soak-off-traditional-gels.html
http://www.nailsmag.com/article/107486/why-two-weeks-is-best

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Free Edge Separation

One of the most common problems a nail tech sees during a fill service is separation of the natural nail from the enhancement at the nail tip.  It can be very frustrating to have zero lifting or issues anywhere else but the tip is peeling away!

Causes
There are a number of reasons for free edge separation:

• Nail tip adhesive break down
• Improper mix ratio in acrylic - especially too wet of a ratio which may not lift at the cuticle but often pulls away at the tip.
• Using old bulbs with gel
• Clients using their nails as tools
• Old product - this is less likely with today's advanced  products but there are some acrylic on the market that still use old technology. 
• The natural nail. 

Yes, the natural nail itself is often a cause of enhancement separation at the free edge.  If you take a good look at your natural nail you will notice that as it grows, it does not grow out perfectly straight, it naturally has a lower arch and C-curve and as the nail gets longer, these become more prominent. When this happens, the nail slowly begins to pull away from the enhancement -  usually at the free edge and especially at the corners of the free edge.

The second thing that happens with natural nails that can cause separation is that the nail becomes dry.  When the nail plate is on top of the nail bed it is getting moisture from the body through the bed.  However, once it leaves the bed and becomes free edge, it is susceptible to the elements and is no longer getting any moisture or natural protection. Much like conditioning your hair, you need to condition your nails EVEN when wearing enhancements!   If the natural nails are not conditioned with oil daily, they WILL dry up, and curl away from the enhancement.  The hardest part here is convincing clients that this is essential. 
Fixes
Gluing down the separation does not work and may trap contaminants.  Cutting off the natural nail is generally undesirable from the clients perspective and often causes further lifting.  There really is only one true fix for free edge separation - you need to remove the product  that is separated and replace with fresh product.  

Now, you don't need to soak off the entire nail but you do need to file off the whole separated area - similar to doing a backfill.  Then re-cleanse, prime and apply product per your manufacturer's instructions.  In some cases, you may have to use a form to re-extend the nail to match the other nails.

Prevention

• Use a thicker, gel-like nail adhesive which breaks down more slowly, or attach tips with acrylic or sculpt the nail.
• Make sure your mix ratio is correct for your product.
• Make sure you clean your UV./LED bulbs daily and change them regularly.
• Have the client use a good quality cuticle oil (not one that contains mineral oil or petroleum products) not just on their cuticle area but also under the free edge on the natural nail several times a day.
• Each time you file the length down on a set of nails where the natural nail is the same length as the enhancement, you will need to cap the edge with a small layer of acrylic or gel to seal around the client's nails and the enhancement.  

I hope this helps!

Resources
http://www.salongeek.com/threads/free-edge-is-separating-from-brisa-gel-nails.209580/
http://www.salongeek.com/threads/help-with-enhancements-free-edge-separation.10809/
https://www.cnd.com/pdf/Troubleshooting/Enc_Gel_TroubleShooting%20Tables.pdf
http://www.nailsmag.com/article/96845/10-common-causes-of-nail-service-breakdown
http://www.fingernailfixer.com/#!enhancements/cykr
https://books.google.com/books?id=7xuzFdrIFscC&pg=PA299&lpg=PA299&dq=nail+tip+separation+from+enhancements&source=bl&ots=yiVXFDYnu1&sig=2GsFACiTO4eu8Y7DzOH8gRZKMMc&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjv1uefm-PJAhWM5iYKHTkhArYQ6AEIUDAJ#v=onepage&q=nail%20tip%20separation%20from%20enhancements&f=false

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Fill Lines and Lifting

There are two types of "lines" that you can see after filling an anhancement. One is a line where there was lifted product that was not completely filed away and another is a red ring from overfiling (called "rings of fire" in the US).  This post will address the first type.

Preventing Lines
Karen from Key West once said on the Beautytech forum: "to get control of fill lines, you have to get control of your product and eliminate the lifting. Fill lines generally happen when there is a teeny bit of   product along the regrowth area that is lifted off the nailplate. If you can  get your product under strict control so it is sealed down all the way   around your cuticle and sidewalls, you'll see the problem will solve itself. "  And frankly, that is the absolute best piece of advice there is when dealing with fill lines.  No lifting = no lines.

To get control of your product we go back to prep, product application (not touching skin - ever) and, for acrylic, mix ratio and not mixing systems.  Any one - or all - of these things could be causing your lifting problems and you need to practice to get them under control. 

I must reiterate - if product touches the skin at any point in your application (even if you remove it right away), you will have lifting. Its a given.  (not to mention the possibility of client overexposure.  But I digress)

Make sure you've reviewed the instructions for your product line...and that you really are doing what they suggest. Another thing that Karen form Key West points out is that too much filing at the cuticle will cause lifting. "If you have  a lump or bump and press the file down on it to file it away, you will   actually force the nailplate down and away from the product, or cause a  lift, in other words. So again, it comes down to control and really   thinking about each bit of product as you work and make sure you have to do   as little filing near the cuticle as possible."


Getting Rid of Lines
OK, so you haven't mastered produt application yet, so how do you remove fill lines?

First, lets address what NOT to do:  DO NOT nip away lifted acrylic, use extra monomer or primer to "soften" or hide the lift, glue down the lift or ignore the lifted area.  These all will cause more problems in the long run, causing yellowing, overexposure, damaging natural nails, exacerbating lifting, etc, etc.

The only real way to deal with lifting, other than complete removal of the enhancement, is by filing

it away.

Karen from Key West has some more advice on how to deal with lifted areas: "One is to file a little bit "behind" the lifted area. Take your file and move it a bit beyond the end of  the lifted area, and file a groove....BE CAREFUL and do not file into the nail plate! But if you watch closely, you will be able to see the line where you are filing lighten, and at that point, take the corner of your nipper and flake away the lifted/filed away area. What you will have left is acrylic that is sealed down to the nail and should not show fill lines.

"Another technique is to  blend what you can, then use one of the adhesive promoter products available to reattach the lifted area. I personally don't use this technique, because I found I was relying on the product to do my blending for me...and I ended  up with nails that had lost their integrity after a couple of fills. But that's me. Another thing you can do is to blend the entire product area so  that it is very thin...and then work on just the lifted spots as above. "
 
Georgette (also from the Beautytech boards) offers this advice: "Fill ins do not start with the fill in. they start with the original product application. Filing flush at cuticle. take the tip of YOUR fingernail and see you feel anything by flicking your fingernail where the cuticle and product meet. If you can feel or hear anything keep filing till there is no dust but do not go onto the natural nail. Then when the nail grows out it will be  sealed and flush. Clients will not be hooking product into the hair etc. "


But I use Cover Powder, so who cares if there are lines?
I am a bit wary with how popular cover powders have become in the last few years.  Yes, its cool to have permenantly colored nails, but you cannot see what is going on under the enhancement.  Greenies?  No idea. Onycholysis? Can't tell.  Damage? *shrug*  I have seen nail techs on Instagram show their prepped nails and it is obvious there is still a small amount of lifting on the nail but becasue they are using cover powder they don't seem to care.

Remember, a fill line is a tiny lifted area and if you are covering it up without fixing it you are leaving an opening for bacteria and water to enter and are also leaving the strength and integrity of the nail compromised so that it is more likely to break or lift in the future.


I will leave you with a Tip of the Week Vicki wrote on this subject many years ago - but, as usual, her advice still stands today

TIP OF THE WEEK #26      FILL LINES by Vicki Peters

One of our biggest challenges is getting those fill lines out when doing pink and white nails. We file and file, get frustrated and finally end up quitting after we see we have filed right into the natural nail and make a big hot spot, making it worse. Can you relate? I can because I did it myself for years.

The only simple solution I have to offer here is if you're having trouble getting those lines out - plain and simple have not done enough filing. Now I am talking the average nail with the average amount of lifting. I am not talking about a set of nails that have yellowed, have major lifting or should have been filled three weeks ago. That is a new set in the making. I am talking about your average client with the average fill challenges.

I know I file better on one side of the nail than the other and you probably do too. So looking at the nail as you file it I can get the left side of the nail down flush and have to work harder on the right side. So what I do is instead of filing the fill in area at the cuticle to a point (Like a upside down V) I file across the nail at the cuticle area from side to side instead. I hold the nail sideways so I am viewing it from the "profile" and I can see that I am not digging into the natural nail and I file from left sidewall to right sidewall, taking all the product off at the cuticle area down about 1/3 of the nail. I can see that I am graduating the acrylic down to the natural nail for no lines.

This may seem silly that I am taking off more product than needed but it does two things here: 1. Get the lines out quickly and 2. Refreshes more of the product keeping the nail more stabilized in the long run. I find that I do less new sets because I kept the nails more refreshed in color and retention by doing more filing.

You also want to file the entire nail and take off 25% of the top surface. This also refreshes the nail and removes any discoloration. When I filled I usually pulled a bit of the pink at the cuticle area over the entire nail replacing that 25% with clean new pink acrylic, which also helps to keep the nails in a more stabilized shape. You can us clear for this as well not worring about pulling the pink over the white.

Now if one of the lines eludes you - you have a few options here:

1. Most cushioned files are too fat to see what you're doing, use a Flowery Silver Streak thin wood 180/180 board to get into tight spots. Or one similar. CND has some nice wood boards.
2. Use a file that does not bend as you file with it - you will have more control over what you're doing. EZ Flow has a great 150/150 cushioned that is sleek and can get into tight spots and will not bend. If you're bending your files maybe try a higher grit - you may be pressing too hard trying to do something your file cannot do - so go up one grit and maybe you won't have to press so hard.
3. Use your electric file instead of your file. Now many of you may be afraid of this and the key is to use a cone bit and keep the bit on the acrylic and off the natural nail. Use a cone that has a tapered rounded edge or the "V" bit from Kupa - yes it was named after me. It is a carbide cone with a flat cut off tip. Diamond cones are good too. I use the "V" bit on my cuticle areas after I have done my shaping. Aseptico and Medicool have some beautiful soft tipped cone bits you may want to try as well.
4. Use your dehydrator - like CND Nail Fresh, OPI's Bond Aid or a comparable product. If you think you have not filed enough, a way to check is to dust the nail, apply the dehydrator to the nail, quickly, as it is still wet it will give you a window to what the nail will look like when the acrylic is applied. You may have filed enough and don't know it and this is a sneak peek into the future to see if you got the line out or not. Don't be afraid to do this two or three times, just to make sure.
5. Don't let the dust fake you out. Sometimes we are trying to file the dust  thinking it is a line - so clean it out with your dehydrator and see if it  was only the dust.
6. Use NSI's Line Out. This is an incredible product and one of a kind.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions and after cleansing the nails apply  Line Out to the fill line. Now I can't express this loudly enough, this is  not the answer to your lifting problems and it should not be used as a  crutch. If you have lifting problems then you need to address your  application procedures. NSI's Line out is for those hard to get places and  should be used wisely. I have used it over a bad-lifting area and later down the line that same lifted area lifted again but now I had encased it  with two fills and had to replace the whole nail eventually. I have used it  when I had a difficult line to get out and it worked perfectly. So be wise when using this wonderful product.

So the bottom line is file more, use your files and bits properly and go the  extra mile and you will be pleased with your results. If you want the  numbers to any of the manufacturers mentioned in the tip of the week - you  can look them up in your Nailpro Gold Book. And when you look them up - go  through the Gold Book again and see what a wonderful source guide it really is. Lots of hard work goes in there and I reference it at least once a day.

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

Vicki

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

 

References/Resoucres:
http://www.nailsmag.com/qa/70064/how-can-i-avoid-fill-lines-without-filing-too-much-on-the-natural-nail
http://www.nailsmag.com/blogpost/103231/chasing-the-fill-line
http://www.nailpro.com/eliminate-lines
 

Doug Schoon's UV Gel Class - Orlando 2012

It's a bit echo-y but worth it!

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Yellowing in Enhancements

Yellowing is the discoloration and breakdown of artificial nail coatings by ultraviolet light, excessive heat, or chemical contaminants.  Yellow enhancements is a relatively common problem in the nail world but luckily its something that is easy to fix. The majority of yellowing occurs in acrylic nails and wraps, though it could happen in gel nails as well.  Lets take a look at the reasons.

Acrylic (Liquid & Powder) Nails

Since acrylic nails are porous, yellowing can be caused by a number of things.  The fact that all modern acrylics are cross linked means they are not as likely to yellow as a resin based product which is not cross linked but still more likely to yellow than a gel nail which is non-porous.

These are the most common reasons for yellow acrylics:

• Staining from nail polish
• Contaminated or old liquid - Make sure you store monomer in a dark, cool place, always use a proper dispenser made for that product, and never mix old and new monomer together and always use fresh monomer for each client
• Using monomer that doesn't have a UV protestant 
• Using a contaminated brush or brush cleaner - Also, never apply any oil or conditioner to the bristles. Nothing but monomer and polymer should ever come in contact with your brush
• Not thoroughly seasoning a new acrylic brush - Each time you buy a new acrylic brush, gently run a new wood stick through the bristles until the manufacturer’s powdery gum is completely removed. This may take 15 minutes or longer, but if you fail to do it, the gum could cause your acrylics to turn yellow.
• Odorless acrylic is more likely to yellow
• Acid primer touching existing acrylic during a fill can cause that part to yellow.
• Not allowing an acid primer to dry before applying nail enhancements.
• MMA (methyl methacrylate, which we will discuss soon ) is notorious for yellowing
• Excessive tanning or smoking, on the client’s end. Sunless tanning lotions can stain the nails as well.
• Household chemicals can also cause yellowing (clients need to wear gloves!)
• Certain top coats that are used over pink and whites tend to stain and yellow.

Gel Nails

Gel nails (hard gel) are non-porous and generally not susceptible to yellowing, however occasionally it is seen. Products designed for UV tanning sometimes yellow the top surface of traditional gels and can be easily buffed away at the next appointment.  With certain brands, if you do not apply the finish gel to seal nails, nail polish and smoking can sometimes cause the gel to discolor. Lastly, some gels actually absorb UV rays from the sun, technically "over-curing" the gel and causing yellowing.

Wraps and other Resin-based Products (i.e. "Tip and Dip" systems)
The most common cause of yellowing in resin-based systems like wraps and dip systems is staining from polish, nicotine, tanning lotions, etc or age.  Because resin based systems are not cross-linked, they are more susceptible to things like UV rays, nail polish pigments and general wear and tear. Resin-based systems are the one type of system that has to be removed and replaced periodically since there is no way to avoid the aging.



References:
http://www.nailsmag.com/qa/70113/why-does-gel-turn-yellow-on-some-people-and-not-on-others-in-the-summer
http://www.nailsmag.com/article/112640/the-help-desk-answers-your-technical-and-health-questions
http://www.nailsmag.com/qa/81788/why-do-my-clients-acrylic-nails-look-discolored

Backfills (French rebalance)

We have discussed the procedure for re-balancing nails (fills) and that all well and good, but what if we have someone who has a Pink & White (Permanent French) look?  The concept of re-balancing is the same, but we have that added step of the grown out white tip to deal with.  There are seemingly as many ways to re balance a French nail as there are companies that make products!  I will present a few of the most common ways here (these methods are the same for both Acrylic Liquid & Powder or Gel nails).

Generally you would begin just like any other re-balance procedure, but with step 2 where you are thinning out and cleaning up the grown out product, you would add in the french re-balancing Prep and then when you apply product you also fill in the white.  Let me show you...

First of all, you do not need an electric file to do a backfill (French Re-balance).  The first method I am presenting is the method the NSI, CND and OPI teaches, which basically entails thinning out the entire enhancement by about 50% (you can use a hand file or electric file; they show a hand file) and then you just reapply a thin layer of product over the entire nail - basically re-building the enhancement just like a full set. One advantage to this method is that it looks like a brand new set every time (which is what you want!)
(This video has a lot of references to the NSI product line, the first video shows the prep and the second shows application - they are the same video I just skipped past all the wordiness :) )

 

Basic Electric File Method - I think that this is the most common method (at least among techs I know). I personally use a barrel bit, but she is using a tapered backfill bit.  There are a lot of ways to carve the smile line with this method.

Tammy Taylor Method - Tammy Taylor uses a thin bit to literally just gouge out the new white growth area at the smile line and fill that in with white.  Many people opt to not do this method because there may be a color difference between the new and old product

Fill Before Cut - Young Nails teaches to basically to a regular fill and then use an e-file to cut the smile line after you apply the pink product. Its basically their counterpart to the Reverse Application.

I hope this helps!

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Pocket Lifting

Pocket lifting is a term used to describe when an enhancement gets a "bubble" in the middle of the nail plate but the area around it is still sealed down.

To understand center pocket lifting, you have to understand the concept of shrinkage in enhancement technology.  The wetter something is, the more likely it will be to shrink as it dries - shrinkage can be excessive and have negative results when there is too much monomer in your brush. 

With Gels, excess shrinkage can occur when there is too thick of a layer of gel applied (or if the bulbs are dirty or old)  so that the UV rays do not penetrate to the bottom of the gel layer, which makes it not fully adhere to the nail plate.

Why can’t I see it when I am filing, buffing and finishing the client’s nails?  
All products will shrink during polymerization. It takes a liquid & powder system 24 - 48 hours to completely cure.  The product cures to about 60% in the first hour, which leaves 40% to occur over the next few days.  The wetter the mix, the longer it takes to fully cure.  The simple reason why we cannot see the pocket lift during the filing process is because the full cure of the enhancement has not taken place.  If pocket lifting occurs; it will be evident when the client returns for a rebalance.

Why does it only happen with certain clients and not all 10 nails?
A larger or more curved nail plate can exacerbate shrinkage.  The apex is the highest part of the nail enhancement, hence the area with the most product.  Shrinkage will place force on the apex and on the center of the plate.  If this force becomes excessive, the product can pop free at the apex (or center of the nail plate).  We usually see it on the thumbs and/or middle fingers (the larger fingers) of the client.

How do I prevent pocket lifting?
The solution to this problem is simple.  Be sure to use the recommended mix ratio for optimum results.  If you have center pocket lifting, use a slightly drier mix ratio.  This should eliminate the center pocket lift. However,  be aware that too dry of a mix ratio could also cause lifting problems if the bead is so dry that it hardens before it fully adheres to the natural nail.  Proper mix ratio is key! You should always use the mix ratio recommended by the manufacturer.

With gel nails, make sure your bulbs are clean and within their optimal use strength (if you cant remember how long its been since you changed the bulbs, its time to change them!  Basically, that's every 3-4 months if you mainly do gel nails, 6 months or so otherwise. Some lamps have bulb life timers on them.)



-----------------------------------
Much of this article comes from: http://nsinails.com/nail-lab/science-of-beauty/center-pocket-lifting-faq.html#.VgwUf3LltaQ

Rebalancing Nails (Part 2 - Procedure)

Now that we have learned why we rebalance a nail in part 1 of this article, lets talk about the actual process of rebalancing. (We will talk about rebalancing a French nail in a later article)

1. Just like with a full set, we will start with a Client Intake and Analysis.  Now, if this is a long time client our intake may be just a few seconds long, confirming the length and shape of the nails and assessing if there are any major issues. For a new rebalance client we want to take a bit longer, asking questions about the nails, what they are looking for as an end result, what they have on their nails currently and assessing if there are any major issues that need addressing (breakage, cracks, lifting, yellowing, greenies, etc.).
2. Next we will sanitize our hands and begin the process of preparing the artificial nail for a rebalance.



http://www.nsinails.com

• Shorten and reshape the nails
• Thin out the free edge back to the original thickness - it will be thicker after shortening due to the out-grown apex.
• File over the stress area and taper the sidewalls until flush to the natural nail.
• Prep all cracks for repair by thinning the area around the crack. Thin all the way to the root of the crack (which is usually down to the natural nail plate). 
• Thin any areas of lifting until the separated product flakes away and a new seal is found.
• Thin product until it is flush with the natural nail and there are no areas of lifting visible. Avoid nipping or mechanical force when removing lifted areas – sliding the nipper under a lifted edge and pulling up leads to service breakdown. It can also pull up layers of the nail plate, which will weaken the foundation of the enhancement. Nipping can also lead to onycholysis, and perpetuate excessive filing to remove the ridge left behind. Proper nail care is of utmost importance.  You must do everything you can to protect and preserve the integrity of the natural nail plate
• Review entire file prep to be sure remaining product is thin and even, and that there is no lifted material left. 
3. PREP the exposed natural nails.
4. Apply your chosen product per the manufacturers instructions, filling in the growth area and rebalancing the stress area on all nails and addressing any broken or cracked nails in the process.
5. File and finish as usual

Pictures from : http://www.nsinails.com/nail-labs/tricks-of-the-trade/rebalancing.html

 

 

.

Rebalancing Nails (Fills)

The bread and butter of many nail tech's business is not the full set of nails but rather the nail rebalancing service (called "fills" in the US or "infills" in the UK). Once a set of nails is applied, customers are required to come back every 2-3 weeks for a rebalance. 

The word "fill" makes a person think that the sole purpose of the procedure is to "fill in" the growth at the cuticle. This is simply wrong and is the reason I don't use the word "fill" in this article. The true purpose of a rebalance service is to rebalance the structure of the nail and - yes, fill in the growth area, though this is truly the secondary reason for the service - hence the reason I prefer the term "rebalance" over "fill". 

Do you remember how much time we spent building a perfect nail? Over time the balance/structure of the nail is lost and clients will end up with weak nails that can crack easily and break. A rebalance restores the balance and structure of the nail by repairing any cracks, chips, and breaks, reducing the length back to what it was, replacing the smile line back to where it should be and replacing the apex back to where it should be and of course replacing the product in the grown out area, This brings the nail back to as good as they were when they were first applied and also removes the need to have to soak off and reapply full sets of nails every month or two . A client could conceivably continue to rebalance her nails and never have to put on a new full set (unless they wanted to do a drastic change, like colored acrylic, etc.).

The Physics of Nails

Did you think you weren't going to use physics again after 8th grade?? Wrong :)

First a few definitions:

• Fulcrum: The point on which a lever rests or is supported and on which it pivots.
• Torque: The product of force and distance from a pivot or fulcrum.
• Balance: A body is balanced when it is stationary. That means there must be no net force or torque. Hence, any forces and/or torques on the body must be canceled or balanced by opposing forces and/or torques. If an object does not have a uniform weight distribution then the center of gravity will be closer to where most of the weight is located

OK, so what does this MEAN???

Lets think of the stress area of the nail as the Fulcrum and the weight of the Apex of the enhancement as providing Torque.

When we build a set, we take the time to put the arch in the stress area so that the nail is balanced. If we have a long nail we elongate the apex so to counter-balance the length of the nail. Balance is not the same as symmetry and symmetry is not the same as balance. What we are striving for is balanced nails.

 

 

After a few weeks (usually 2-3) the nail has grown enough so that the arch is now far enough past the stress area to start causing the nail to become off balance. (The weight of the apex is now exerting more pressure (torque) on one side of the nail and the nail is no longer balancing on the stress area.) 

 

You will notice that nowhere are we concerned about how much of a "gap" is at the cuticle - our concern is with the location of the apex and the imbalance it causes. For some reason techs nowadays find that it is "ok" for clients to wait 5+ weeks before a "fill" because the gap at the cuticle isn't that wide or they haven't broken a nail. This is the absolute wrong way of thinking.   Waiting too long to rebalance an artificial nail places undue stress on the free edge of the nail which can lead to lifting and breaking of the artificial nail.  The natural nail and nail bed can be affected by leukonychia, tenderness, peeling, cracking, splinter hemorrhages and bruising due to repeated stress placed on the nail bed and matrix of the nail trying to overcome the weight of the overgrown enhancement. 

 

 

Pricing

Because pricing is dependent on so many factors, including location, I am going to leave you with some links on this topic. 

http://www.nailpro.com/price-right

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/95787/whats-your-time-worth

http://www.nailsmag.com/blogpost/104730/dont-be-afraid-to-ask-for-what-youre-worthhttp://www.nailsmag.com/article/1215/how-about-giving-your-time-value

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/90938/the-pricing-problem

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40772/why-do-you-charge-more-responding-to-client-questions-about-discount-salons

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/112741/fill-price-depends-on-frequency

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40015/top-dollar-techs

 

 

 See part 2 for an overview of the rebalance procedure!

 

  

Electric Files

First and foremost, lets make something very clear. A drill is defined as "a hand tool, power tool, or machine with a rotating cutting tip or reciprocating hammer or chisel, used for making holes."  Unless you are planning to drill a hole in your client's nail, please do not use the term "drill" when referring to a professional electric nail file.  [Yes, it is a commonly used term, but it isn't a correct term (like cuticle vs eponychium).]

Electric files emerged in the early 1980s, patterned after tools used in other industries, including the medical and dental fields.  By the mid-1990's electric files had gotten a bad reputation.  Some nail techs seemed deathly afraid of them, saying they were too noisy, they took up too much space, they intimidated clients, and they damaged clients’ nails. Despite their wide use, there didn’t seem to be consistent or widely available information or education on their proper use in the nail salon. It’s not hard to understand why electric files were often misused. Without formal education, the risk of using improper tools or using the right tool the wrong way remained high.

In addition, if a client has had a bad experience with an electric file in the past, explain what you’ll be doing differently. Communication is important during any salon service, and electric files are no exception.

In 1995, Creative Nail Design’s Jan Arnold said she’d do away with electric files entirely if she could. Her biggest criticism was that the files’ vibration and high-speed grinding loosened the acrylic mix before it had a chance to fully cure. That, in turn, led to microscopic cracks that caused breaks and chips in the acrylic nail.  Today, "Creative Nail Design has realized electric files are being widely used in the industry,” says Doug Schoon, vice president of science and technology for Creative Nail Design. “We decided that if they are used correctly they are safe.” The fact that a well-known industry figure who once disapproved of their use is now advocating safe electric file usage says a lot about how far these tools have come.


Lets pause for some Trivia!
TRIVIA QUESTIONS:

Rings of Fire

1. The metal or rubber bits that hold a sanding band are called ______
2. Leaving a file bit in disinfection solution for more than _____ at a time can cause it to rust 
3. Which type of bit produces the LEAST airborne dust ?
4. You should never use ______ to remove bits from disinfectant solution 
5. What is a common cause of the bit grabbing the nail?
6. To reduce the risk of rings of fire, it is recommended that you_____
   
   
7. What is a recommended solution to micro-shattering?
8. True or False: When a bit is dropped, it should be replaced 
9. True or False: Pedicure bits are  usually made of carbide 
10. What is the standard shank size for a salon-grade electric file?
11. Most nail technicians use electric files with a range of __________
12. The reverse option on an electric file is needed only for __________
13. If your hand piece creates excessive vibration, it is recommended that you ________
14. The standard electric file bits include __________________
15. Carbide bits are measured by___________
16. The grooves carved into a client's nail by filing with bits at the incorrect angle are known as___________
17. _________ bits cannot be effectively disinfected

And now back to our regularly scheduled post...

Steve Wallace, national sales manager of Medicool Inc., in Toronto, California, points out that there is a prevailing motion that electric files will help nail techs do 10 sets a day. Electric files “will help prevent fatigue and can help with carpal tunnel syndrome. And they can reach certain areas that a hand file just can’t. It can help refine their work, but it wasn’t designed to make the process faster.”

Many people still believe an electric file is harmful, but in reality it isn’t what causes damage, it’s the person using it. That is the most common misconception and that’s why education is key. “In my opinion, the greatest single problem plaguing electric files is that people think because they can buy one, they can use it. Until you get formalized training you’re not qualified to use it,” says Schoon. 

It’s like allowing people to buy cars and not teaching them how to drive. Of course when people start driving without getting the proper instructions, they’ll get hurt.

The now defunct Association of Electric File Manufacturers used to teach intensive 8 hour electric file clinics. Even though they no longer exist, the list of topics that they covered in their intensive clinics is a good list for any technician to have under their belt.  Some of these topics include:

• Types of machines and guidelines for purchasing a machine 
• The basic techniques of prepping for enhancement products 
• Upgrading your machine
• Bit selection and proper use
• Safety precautions and client protection.
• Fill-in and maintenance procedures
• Refining and finishing
• Using an electric file for manicures and pedicures
• Pink and white enhancement application and maintenance. 

Kupa has a great play list on how to use various bits on YouTube as does Nail Career Education

Some Professional Electric Nail File Manufacturers

• www.atwoodindustries.net
• www.kupainc.com
• http://www.ramprodinc.com/
• https://www.ultronicsusa.com/FilesDiamondBits/Products.aspx
• http://www.medicool.com/manicure_pedicure/manped_proelectricfiles.php
• http://www.ericasata.com/shop/
• http://www.youngnails.com/
• http://www.lascodiamond.com/LascoManicure-Home.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TRIVIA ANSWERS:

1. mandrels 
2. 10 minutes 
3. carbide bits 
4. an un-gloved hand 
5. improper speed 
6. reduce the amount of pressure applied during filing and do not hold the bit at an angle to the nail
7. Use a slower speed, Use a finer grit bit, Make sure the bit is not bent. 
8. True
9. False
10. 1/32"
11. 5,000 to 20,000 RPM
12. left-handed nail techs 
13. have it serviced immediately
14. carbide bits, diamond bits,  natural nail silicone bits, ceramic bits, sanding bands,  High-shine buffing bits (Chamois or goat hair)
15. the number of flutes in each bit
16. rings of fire
17. High-shine bits (Chamois or goat hair)

What the heck are hybrid nails?

Hybrid: noun - a thing made by combining two different elements; a mixture

Simply put, hybrid nails are a combination of different types of systems.  There is no standard definition in the nail industry as to what type of products are being mixed.  Which means if someone says they want hybrid nails, it could mean just about anything and you will need to ask questions to find out exactly what they are talking about.

Some examples of hybrid nails:

• CND Shellac: Markets itself as a UV Gel - Nail Polish hybrid
• Tip and Dip systems: a hybrid of wrap and acrylic systems; uses resin and powder to create an enhancement. 
• AcryGel/Powder Gel:  (not to be confused with gel powder which is just clear acrylic) - this is a hybrid of UV Gel and Acrylic. It is similar to a tip and dip system except instead of resin there is a thin UV gel and instead of dipping, you spoon on the powder.  Le Chat and Star are two well known brands.
• Nuni Torres Method [I don't know what else to call these :)] Instagram star and Boss Nails tv show alum, Nuni, uses a thinner acrylic layer on the nail bed and then sculpts the tip with Gel, going over the acrylic on the nail bed with the gel as well.

Have I missed any other types of hybrid nails you have come across?  Comment below!

“Powder Gel”

I will be honest, I have a hard time talking about this subject without going on a rant. Since this blog is about facts, this is going to be short and sweet. But feel free to add your own opinions and comments below!

In recent years the term “Gel Powder” or "Powder Gel" or even "gelcrylic" has cropped up into the nail industry. Professional nail technicians know that a “gel” nail is called that because the form of the product is a gel, like hair gel.

There are two main products that are touted as “powder gel”. One product is truly a UV Gel that an inert powder is sprinkled into before curing. The second product termed “Gel Powder” is, pure and simple, clear acrylic powder. It is called “Gel Powder” because it is clear like gel, not because it bears any resemblance to gel or is UV cured. 

Salons who use these terms do so because:  

1. The manufacturer is selling the product as such and  
2. Their “usual” acrylic color is a milky color and not clear at all

As a professional, I encourage you to not denigrate a salon who uses the term because they may be buying the product labelled as such, however clients need to be educated that Gel does not come in powder form - it is scientifically impossible.

UV Gel with Powder Brands
http://lechatnails.com/product-category/pro-exclusive/gelee/
https://www.shebanails.com/contents/en-us/d276.html
http://starnail.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3
https://www.nailsuperstore.com/…/artisan-flexgeland-p…/52338

“Powder” Gel Brands
http://www.deenterprises.com/gel-powder-clear---advanced-po…

Gel Nails (aka Hard Gel) Application

I want to post this note up front so it doesn't get lost - it is very important to remember that the thickness of the gel coating has a great effect on the degree of cure. Many techs mistakenly believe that because gel is so clear that thickness doesn’t matter, but light will not penetrate thick layers to cure the gel fully. It is much better to use three or four thinner coats rather than one or two thicker coats. Thinner coats allow more light to penetrate the layer, thereby reducing shrinkage as well as minimizing any heat buildup. Thin layers also allow the gel to fully cure, minimizing the possibility of overexposure. Opaque gels are even more susceptible to under curing if the layers are too thick. Keep them thin!

1. Proper PREP
2. Apply forms or apply tips if desired
3. Follow your manufacturer’s instructions on priming the nail – depending on the manufacturer, you may prime with a liquid primer or you may use a base gel applied thinly and cured on the nail. Some brands use a liquid primer followed by a base gel.
4. Apply gel, curing between each layer. There are many, many ways to apply gel. I will post some videos below. The most important thing to remember is to use the correct lamp for your system and to apply the layers thin. They do not have to be as thin as polish but you cannot build a nail in one coat either or you will risk under-curing. This is fantastic video on lamps and the chemistry of gel
5. After the last layer and before filing, remove the sticky inhibition layer using your manufacturer’s recommended cleansing agent. Apply the cleanser to a lint free pad and with firm pressure, wipe each nail from cuticle to free edge. DO NOT “scrub” back and forth on the nail. Remember, the inhibition layer is uncured gel and should never touch skin – “scrubbing” the nail to remove the inhibition layer will push the uncured gel into the cuticle area.
6. Finish file the nail.
7. Cleanse the nail with the manufacturer’s cleanser to remove any dust and oils from touching the nail while filing.
8. At this point, you can do a number of things…You can apply a finish gel and cure to create smooth glass like nails. You can apply a gel polish to the nails, following the manufacturer’s instructions. You can also buff the nails to a more natural matte finish or a 3-way buffer shine (which is usually less shiny than using a finish gel).

Just a note on finishing: If I am using regular nail polish (not gel polish) I will buff the nails to remove scratches, but not to make them shiny - my polish last longer than if I use a finish gel which is very smooth and polish wears off the tip much easier.

Application Videos:
I always suggest following the manufacturer’s instructions on your chosen product. They developed a method that works with their products and helps you to get the feel for that product. However, if you have been using a product for some time and feel like your techniques could use some refining, it never hurts to see what other people do . Just remember that the techniques of other brand work with that particular brand and may or may not work well with the one you are using. The viscosity (thickness) of the gel plays a huge role in how application works.

Young Nails

Masterworks

Tammy Taylor

IBD

CND

LCN