Saving Your Own Nails

TIP OF THE WEEK #21 

SAVING YOUR OWN NAILS By Vicki Peters (circa 2000)

I know as well as anyone that as a professional nail tech our nails should look good all the time and that is nearly impossible. If your nails need a fill, are filed to a point and half the polish is off, when you go to the bank to make your deposit the bank teller, or anyone else for that matter, is not going to ask you where you get your nails done. We are a walking advertisement and our nails should look good all the time.

So here are some suggestions.

1. Make a standing appointment with a salon down the street and get them done. Enjoy having your nails done just like your clients do. Oh I can hear  it now, I don't like the way anyone else does my nails, I am so particular",  well get over it because having them done not quite to your liking is better  than not having them done at all.

2. Make a standing appointment with someone in your salon whose work you do  like and pay her for the appointment so you don't get bumped.

3. Wear them natural and buff them to a high shine. Nails are nails even if  you specialize in artificial nails.

4. Cover your acrylic nails after you polish them with gels to protect the  polish. Gel is acetone resistant and you can buff off the top layer to get to  the polish to remove it and do a fill.

5. Wearing tips that melt? Apply a layer of gel to the underside to protect  them.

6. Cover the nails you tend to file with the stretchy wrap made specifically  for this. Problem is it looks pretty tattered by the end of the day and you  have to remove it every time you wash and I am assuming your washing your  hands in between every client.

7. Do as I do - wear a bankers rubber finger on your thumb and index fingers  that get hit the most with files.

8. Remove the client's polish with the cotton in between your fingers,  between your first and second knuckle, keeping the cotton away from the tips  of your fingers.

9. Have the client use a polish remover machine.

10. Schedule time to do your nails at the end of each week when you're done  taking clients, before you go home.

I know this is a challenge, it is for everyone. But remember you are a  walking advertisement and if you do not have time, which most of us don't  make the time so you always are presentable. And if your going to a trade  show don't go unless you are wearing your very best work. We all inspect each

other's nails at shows and it is important that they look good. Trust me  everyone looks at mine at shows and even if someone else does my nails I tell  them I do them! Except when I am wearing nails from someone like Kym Lee  or  Tom Holcomb!

Vicki

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

Tricks of the Trade: Applying Nail Tips with Acrylic

TIP OF THE WEEK #14:  TIP APPLICATION IN ACRYLIC by Vicki Peters

Diana Bonn posed a question about a comment I recently made on the list about applying tips with acrylic instead of glue, when I was addressing the tips not holding up. Glue, gel glue and most bonding agents and resins are all cynoacrylates. Cynoacrylates break down in water and acrylics don't, that is a fact. So every time you wash your hands you're contributing to the breakdown of the glue you are wearing.

Now I am not stating that glue is not good - do not misunderstand me - what I am claiming is that acrylic is stronger and bonds longer to the natural nail.

I am a huge fan of cutting the wells out of tips, refining the smile lines and placing the edge of the tip on the edge of the nail. It is a cosmetic way of applying a tip that gives very little strength, the strength is in the overlay. If the overlay does not have a properly balanced overlay and is weak on the sides and stress are the tip will break. Same goes for a sculpture. So make sure your overlay is providing the structure not the tip. Applying the well-less tip on the edge of the natural nail with acrylic will give it more strength to stay on.

 

Here are three suggestions for applying tips with acrylic:

#1  Size out your tips and refine them if you choose to. You can use this method with or without wells, with natural colored tips and French white tips. Prep the nail plate just like you would for a sculptured nail, primer and all. Let the primer dry. One tip at a time turn the tip over so the underneath is facing up. Place a small amount of liquid and powder on the inside of the tip where the contact area is going to be on the nail - a thin layer across the entire edge of the tip. Use pink or clear powder. Place on the nail and hold into place until dry.   This takes a bit more time having to hold the tip while drying but the results will be better. When the tips are secure cut and shape the tips and continue with your overlay procedures.

#2  Another way to do this is to place a small ball of acrylic on the tip of the  natural nail and spread it over the entire edge of the nail. Then press the tip into the acrylic. Again you must hold the tip in place until it is dry. Too much acrylic will squish out and not enough will not give enough strength. When the tips are secure, cut and shape the tips and continue with your overlay procedures.

#3 The third way to apply tips in acrylic is to overlay the entire natural nail with pink powder. Before the acrylic is dry press a white French tip onto the very tip of the acrylic on the natural nail and let dry. Apply the cuticle area very thin or not completely up to the cuticle area. Once you have done this on all ten nails cut and shape the parameter of the tips. Then overlay the entire nail with clear acrylic, right over the pink you already applied with a thin coat and over the white tip. Be sure to view from the side to make sure you have not applied too much clear acrylic on the nail bed and not enough on the tip.

Ok so mow another tip: there is no need to take the shine of the tips once you have applied them. The acrylic will stick to them anyway - however whenever applying gels and fibgerglass you may want to take a white block and remove the shine.

Vicki

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

 

 [JZ Note: be careful not to "squish out" the acrylic - when you apply the tip you gently set it on the nail and hold, not rock it on like when using adhesive.  My nail mentor - Terri Lundberg - described it like landing a plane - you "land" the tip very gently and then hold it until dry.  This  technique also gives a fantastic arch to very flat nails (and fills in the gap between the tip and nail)!]

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Fill Lines and Lifting

There are two types of "lines" that you can see after filling an anhancement. One is a line where there was lifted product that was not completely filed away and another is a red ring from overfiling (called "rings of fire" in the US).  This post will address the first type.

Preventing Lines
Karen from Key West once said on the Beautytech forum: "to get control of fill lines, you have to get control of your product and eliminate the lifting. Fill lines generally happen when there is a teeny bit of   product along the regrowth area that is lifted off the nailplate. If you can  get your product under strict control so it is sealed down all the way   around your cuticle and sidewalls, you'll see the problem will solve itself. "  And frankly, that is the absolute best piece of advice there is when dealing with fill lines.  No lifting = no lines.

To get control of your product we go back to prep, product application (not touching skin - ever) and, for acrylic, mix ratio and not mixing systems.  Any one - or all - of these things could be causing your lifting problems and you need to practice to get them under control. 

I must reiterate - if product touches the skin at any point in your application (even if you remove it right away), you will have lifting. Its a given.  (not to mention the possibility of client overexposure.  But I digress)

Make sure you've reviewed the instructions for your product line...and that you really are doing what they suggest. Another thing that Karen form Key West points out is that too much filing at the cuticle will cause lifting. "If you have  a lump or bump and press the file down on it to file it away, you will   actually force the nailplate down and away from the product, or cause a  lift, in other words. So again, it comes down to control and really   thinking about each bit of product as you work and make sure you have to do   as little filing near the cuticle as possible."


Getting Rid of Lines
OK, so you haven't mastered produt application yet, so how do you remove fill lines?

First, lets address what NOT to do:  DO NOT nip away lifted acrylic, use extra monomer or primer to "soften" or hide the lift, glue down the lift or ignore the lifted area.  These all will cause more problems in the long run, causing yellowing, overexposure, damaging natural nails, exacerbating lifting, etc, etc.

The only real way to deal with lifting, other than complete removal of the enhancement, is by filing

it away.

Karen from Key West has some more advice on how to deal with lifted areas: "One is to file a little bit "behind" the lifted area. Take your file and move it a bit beyond the end of  the lifted area, and file a groove....BE CAREFUL and do not file into the nail plate! But if you watch closely, you will be able to see the line where you are filing lighten, and at that point, take the corner of your nipper and flake away the lifted/filed away area. What you will have left is acrylic that is sealed down to the nail and should not show fill lines.

"Another technique is to  blend what you can, then use one of the adhesive promoter products available to reattach the lifted area. I personally don't use this technique, because I found I was relying on the product to do my blending for me...and I ended  up with nails that had lost their integrity after a couple of fills. But that's me. Another thing you can do is to blend the entire product area so  that it is very thin...and then work on just the lifted spots as above. "
 
Georgette (also from the Beautytech boards) offers this advice: "Fill ins do not start with the fill in. they start with the original product application. Filing flush at cuticle. take the tip of YOUR fingernail and see you feel anything by flicking your fingernail where the cuticle and product meet. If you can feel or hear anything keep filing till there is no dust but do not go onto the natural nail. Then when the nail grows out it will be  sealed and flush. Clients will not be hooking product into the hair etc. "


But I use Cover Powder, so who cares if there are lines?
I am a bit wary with how popular cover powders have become in the last few years.  Yes, its cool to have permenantly colored nails, but you cannot see what is going on under the enhancement.  Greenies?  No idea. Onycholysis? Can't tell.  Damage? *shrug*  I have seen nail techs on Instagram show their prepped nails and it is obvious there is still a small amount of lifting on the nail but becasue they are using cover powder they don't seem to care.

Remember, a fill line is a tiny lifted area and if you are covering it up without fixing it you are leaving an opening for bacteria and water to enter and are also leaving the strength and integrity of the nail compromised so that it is more likely to break or lift in the future.


I will leave you with a Tip of the Week Vicki wrote on this subject many years ago - but, as usual, her advice still stands today

TIP OF THE WEEK #26      FILL LINES by Vicki Peters

One of our biggest challenges is getting those fill lines out when doing pink and white nails. We file and file, get frustrated and finally end up quitting after we see we have filed right into the natural nail and make a big hot spot, making it worse. Can you relate? I can because I did it myself for years.

The only simple solution I have to offer here is if you're having trouble getting those lines out - plain and simple have not done enough filing. Now I am talking the average nail with the average amount of lifting. I am not talking about a set of nails that have yellowed, have major lifting or should have been filled three weeks ago. That is a new set in the making. I am talking about your average client with the average fill challenges.

I know I file better on one side of the nail than the other and you probably do too. So looking at the nail as you file it I can get the left side of the nail down flush and have to work harder on the right side. So what I do is instead of filing the fill in area at the cuticle to a point (Like a upside down V) I file across the nail at the cuticle area from side to side instead. I hold the nail sideways so I am viewing it from the "profile" and I can see that I am not digging into the natural nail and I file from left sidewall to right sidewall, taking all the product off at the cuticle area down about 1/3 of the nail. I can see that I am graduating the acrylic down to the natural nail for no lines.

This may seem silly that I am taking off more product than needed but it does two things here: 1. Get the lines out quickly and 2. Refreshes more of the product keeping the nail more stabilized in the long run. I find that I do less new sets because I kept the nails more refreshed in color and retention by doing more filing.

You also want to file the entire nail and take off 25% of the top surface. This also refreshes the nail and removes any discoloration. When I filled I usually pulled a bit of the pink at the cuticle area over the entire nail replacing that 25% with clean new pink acrylic, which also helps to keep the nails in a more stabilized shape. You can us clear for this as well not worring about pulling the pink over the white.

Now if one of the lines eludes you - you have a few options here:

1. Most cushioned files are too fat to see what you're doing, use a Flowery Silver Streak thin wood 180/180 board to get into tight spots. Or one similar. CND has some nice wood boards.
2. Use a file that does not bend as you file with it - you will have more control over what you're doing. EZ Flow has a great 150/150 cushioned that is sleek and can get into tight spots and will not bend. If you're bending your files maybe try a higher grit - you may be pressing too hard trying to do something your file cannot do - so go up one grit and maybe you won't have to press so hard.
3. Use your electric file instead of your file. Now many of you may be afraid of this and the key is to use a cone bit and keep the bit on the acrylic and off the natural nail. Use a cone that has a tapered rounded edge or the "V" bit from Kupa - yes it was named after me. It is a carbide cone with a flat cut off tip. Diamond cones are good too. I use the "V" bit on my cuticle areas after I have done my shaping. Aseptico and Medicool have some beautiful soft tipped cone bits you may want to try as well.
4. Use your dehydrator - like CND Nail Fresh, OPI's Bond Aid or a comparable product. If you think you have not filed enough, a way to check is to dust the nail, apply the dehydrator to the nail, quickly, as it is still wet it will give you a window to what the nail will look like when the acrylic is applied. You may have filed enough and don't know it and this is a sneak peek into the future to see if you got the line out or not. Don't be afraid to do this two or three times, just to make sure.
5. Don't let the dust fake you out. Sometimes we are trying to file the dust  thinking it is a line - so clean it out with your dehydrator and see if it  was only the dust.
6. Use NSI's Line Out. This is an incredible product and one of a kind.  Follow the manufacturer's instructions and after cleansing the nails apply  Line Out to the fill line. Now I can't express this loudly enough, this is  not the answer to your lifting problems and it should not be used as a  crutch. If you have lifting problems then you need to address your  application procedures. NSI's Line out is for those hard to get places and  should be used wisely. I have used it over a bad-lifting area and later down the line that same lifted area lifted again but now I had encased it  with two fills and had to replace the whole nail eventually. I have used it  when I had a difficult line to get out and it worked perfectly. So be wise when using this wonderful product.

So the bottom line is file more, use your files and bits properly and go the  extra mile and you will be pleased with your results. If you want the  numbers to any of the manufacturers mentioned in the tip of the week - you  can look them up in your Nailpro Gold Book. And when you look them up - go  through the Gold Book again and see what a wonderful source guide it really is. Lots of hard work goes in there and I reference it at least once a day.

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

Vicki

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

 

References/Resoucres:
http://www.nailsmag.com/qa/70064/how-can-i-avoid-fill-lines-without-filing-too-much-on-the-natural-nail
http://www.nailsmag.com/blogpost/103231/chasing-the-fill-line
http://www.nailpro.com/eliminate-lines
 

Smile Lines

TIP OF THE WEEK #10 SMILE LINES By Vicki Peters

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

When we tackle smile lines in our pink and white nails they don't always come out the way we envision them too and because of that many techs stay away from offering pink and white nails. I hear techs often say, " my clients don't want pink and white nails" yet they get a French manicure which does not make sense to me. I think it is because we are afraid of them so we don't do them. I admit it can me a frustrating technique to conquer, smile lines take time to master and it is definitely hard work but there are some simple steps that can help.

GOOD SMILE LINES / BAD SMILE LINES

A smile line should mirror the shape of the cuticle, so if you were to bend the nails in half they should match. That should be your goal. The sides should be just as high on each side and the center of the smile line be at its lowest point in the center of the nail. The shape should be centered, as the tip of a round nail should be.

THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT

We need the right tools to make the job easier and a square brush does not cut it. You definitely need a pointed brush with a perfect tip to achieve a good smile line. The brush should come to a perfect point when submerged in the liquid before wiping. My preference is about a size 7 - 9 oval brush. My perspective on the brush I use is that it is a round brush with a good point with a crimp in the ferule, which makes the brush two sided instead of completely round. I prefer this style of brush because I easily get a flat side to press the product in place and also a good point to the brush for wiping. You can achieve this with a round brush but you have to consciously reshape the brush as you work with it to flatten it out. I also prefer a brush that is not so long it bends as you wipe. It should have some vice to it but if it bends too much you won't have the control you need when pressing the against the white powder as it dries.

  Your white tip powder must be dense enough to get good color. Most of us work with medium to fast set powders and you must completely understand your liquid to powder ratio or you will either make a mess or can't get the product off the brush fast enough. The dryer the white tip product the denser the white color. Blue liquids and how thick the product is can play a part in the final color and we will discuss that later in the application section.

APPLICATION TECHNIQUES

Use a 1-ball method to get the base of the white tip applied. Applying with several smaller balls will show with most products because not every ball will be the exact same consistency and you may see the difference in color. The key is here is having good control of your product. Understanding your liquid to powder ratio and knowing exactly how much liquid to use will give you the control you need. Too wet will make you have to chase it around and too dry of a ball will dry too fast not allowing you the control to press it in place. Now I am speaking about the average size nail, a longer one would take more applications.

STEP 1

Pour enough liquid into your dappen dish so when you submerge your brush it is completely. Then wipe all the liquid out of the brush. Make sure your dappen dish is stable and will not move when you wipe up against the side of the dish.

STEP 2

The dip the brush in to get the amount of liquid you need to pick up a medium to large size ball that will cover the tip area. Place the ball of white tip powder right in the center of the tip with the top edge right on the smile line and not over it. Wipe your brush gently to remove any acrylic in the tip without wiping the rest of the liquid out and bring it back to a point. Wiping your brush will do two things here 1- bring it back to perfect working order and 2- allow the acrylic to start setting up a bit so it is not sticky as you work with it. We tend to dig into our product too fast sometimes making it difficult to control, let it set a few seconds before playing with it.

STEP 3

With your brush that has been brought back to it's perfect shape press the product into place to the left and then to the right and then gently wipe down to the tip, smoothing and covering the entire tip. Be sure not to press too hard or you will wipe the product off.

STEP4

Re-dip your brush to moisten it, wipe the liquid out again and bring it to a perfect point before wiping your smile line. Hold the brush straight up with the tip pointing to ceiling and from the center to the left side of the smile line wipe and then from the center to the right side wipe. You may need to do this two or three times before you get the perfect shape and the product is set enough to stay where you wiped it. As the product dries you may want to wipe slower.

From the time you picked up your product and placed it on the nail and patted the product into place should be about 15-20 seconds at the most. You have to work fast and not waste time wiping your brush, get it done quickly. Then you should spend another 15-20 seconds wiping the smile line, maybe a bit more if your product has not set up too much. If your white tip does sets up too fast try using a bit more liquid.

  STEP 5

  Check to make sure the white product is tall enough from the side view and all the whites match in height. You want to build it up enough so when you apply the pink it meets it at the smile line and barely goes over the white. Too much pink will mute the color. If you use clear and pull it over the white tip that is not tall enough you will not get a sharp look because the white in thin. If you do wipe a bit of the pink over the white remember you are going to file the top surface and you will probably end up removing it.

STEP 6

Add the ears after wiping the smile line to the desired shape. Use small dry balls of product and wipe slowly bringing the edges right up into the sidewalls of the nails without going over and touching the skin. Use the very tip of your brush for application. Be sure to check the sides for coverage making sure you have wrapped the product around the sidewall enough so you don't file it out later.

I apply the white tips to all ten nails at once. It keeps me focused and allows the white to be dry before applying the pink. If you apply the pink right after the white you can press it too hard and smoosh that perfect smile line you just worked hard to apply. After applying the white tips, pour out the liquid you used and pour in fresh liquid for the pink. Most of the liquid you used may be milky from the white powder, which will mute your pink.

STEP 7

Apply the pink or clear powder to all ten nails.

APPLYING OVER TIPS

If you prefer to work with tips instead of sculpts prep your tips and blend them. I prefer to cut my wells out and in doing so I place the cut out area right on the natural smile line if I am not blending. However I learned a new trick in a competition I hosted in Portland, OR, recently. Cut the tip wells out, shape them and place them below the smile line on the free edge and blend more. I say to blend because you want a smooth line. Then apply your white tip powder above the tip smile line at the natural nail smile line and wipe as if you were working on a sculpt not paying attention to where the tip edge meets the nail. It is more work but the end results in good.

  

SOME TRICKS TO MAKING SMILE LINES EASIER

 Some techs wet the nail plate before applying the white tip powder. The reason is to make the product flow better and I see this in nail competitions all the time. However I would not suggest it in the salon. Eventually that nail plate will be overexposed to the liquid and cause problems later, including pocket lifting in the center of the nail. When applying liquid and powder products we should never get the skin or nail plate wet. Using large brushes and pressing the product on the sides of the nail with the belly of the brush makes contact with the skin at the sidewalls and cuticle areas.

Wiping your smile line with another brush and a cleanser product is the safer way, however time consuming switching brushes and dipping into another dappen dish with the cleanser in it. It can be done comfortably when you are used to it so if this is a method you prefer put it right into your systems as you work and it will become easier.

Cutting the smile line out with a tip is another trick I have picked up in a nail competition. Place the white tip product on the nail and let it set about 60%-75%. You must use a full welled tip with a nice rounded top edge that will resemble the shape of the smile line you want to achieve when turned upside down. Size the tips to fit each nail and set them out on your table. With the tip you have already sized out to match the nail, apply the white tip powder on one nail. When the product is dry enough dip the edge of the tip's contact area (holding it with the tip's edge up and the contact area towards the table (another words upside down) into the dappen dish of liquid monomer. With the tip wet but not dripping, like you would a cookie cutter, place the rounded edge of the top of the tip at an angle, in the white tip powder where you want the smile line to be Cut out the smile line by pressing the tips edge into the white tip powder and cutting out the white product. Wipe it away from you. If the product is too wet you may have to use a new tip and do it again, so practice and know your product when it is dry enough to do this perfectly. You may want to finish the smile line for a more perfect shape by wiping it with your brush after cutting it out with the tip. Sounds complicated but it really is simpler that building a smile line and wiping it into shape.

CUTTING BACKFILL SMILE LINES

This is another challenge and takes practice. And believe me there days we do killer smile lines and days when we look at our work and wonder what came over us! Backfilling is one of the most difficult techniques we perform. I use a large medium carbide back fill bit. I like it because it is about 45% the size of a regular barrel bit, I can cut and remove the product without having to switch its, which saves me time.

You will want to make three cuts. Starting on the right side of the nail, from the highest point of the ears section holding the bit with the top edge at a 45% angle make the cut about one 1/3. Curve the cut from the top of the ear to about 4 O'clock on the smile line. Turn the nail so you can view it from the profile and cut the next third flat across the bottom of the smile line. Then turn the nail so you can view it from the top and angle the last 1/3 from the 8 O'clock position up the left side to the top of the left ear. Rock the finger to meet you as you work.

You can also use the French Fill bit the same way or a regular barrel bit. Which bit you find more comfortable to cut with is what you should use. Bits are preference; there is no one bit everyone should use for cutting smile lines.

The idea of cutting a smile line into the nail for backfilling is to make a wall that you can use to press the product right up against when replacing it on the tip. If you cut smoothly enough there may not be a need to wipe the smile line with your brush.

I have seen backfill smile lines cut with diamond bullet bit held flat on the nail and curved around in a back and forth motion to create a smile line. And one of the best backfills I ever had was done with a large tapered rounded tip titanium carbide barrel bit. A smile line was never cut. The tech held the bit at an angle from the smile line area of the nail to the tip making contact from above the smile line to the tip thinning out the entire tip of the nail as you would if you were hand filing. She replaced my white tip powder as if she was doing a new sculptured nail.

SHADOWS

Oh where do these little shadows come from anyway? The elude us and drive us nuts, especially in nail competition. There are several reasons for shadows but don't confuse shadows with swirling or marbelizing.  If you use a product with an extreme blue liquid you may experience what I call swirling. Competitors prefer a clear liquid in competition for this purpose. The bluing agent in the liquid causes this. So blue it enhances any inconsistent liquid to powder application, even if you do it in one ball. If the liquid is extremely blue and you work wet the swirling will be more prominent than when you apply the white tip powder much drier. These companies claim there is just as much white pigment in the white tip powders, and I believe them, however their educators who I have seen apply their products without the swirling have mastered the application of their white tip powder, where we have not. It can be a sensitive application process. But again, you can see the swirling, most of your clients don't.

Shadows appear for several reasons.

You wiped your smile line holding the brush incorrectly. Wiping with a brush that is not held straight up but towards the client will make a cavity in the edge of the white smile line that looks good until you apply the pink and the pink fills up the cavity muting the crispness. Applying the white powder on the lower edge of the natural smile line. The only way I can describe this is when you have a new full set that the edge of the white smile line has grown to the perfect spot right on top of the natural smile line. This is such a precise point that the next day they appear slightly grown out and you can actually see the edge of the natural free edge through the pink acrylic now. Your natural smile line is actually clear. If you apply the acrylic to the top of the natural smile line or above on the nail plate and wipe the smile line so it is very sharp, you will not have a shadow. If you apply the white powder to the bottom of the smile line you may have a shadow. Another reason for shadows is a shadow with the pink over the white. Going back to making the white tip powder tall enough when you apply it when looking sideways will stop this from happening. If you don't place the white perfectly on the smile line and make it not tall enough, you will have to pull the pink over the white tip to make the arch you may need for shape and support. The pink fills in thicker over the white and makes a pink shadow. Make sure the edge of the smile line is straight up and down and bring the pink high enough to meet the white instead of pulling it over. The same thing happens to me when I rush through a set of white tips with pink and white over them. If I don't pay good enough attention to making the smile line of the white tip powder cover the edge of the white tip I applied at the smile line area the pink will fill in and mute my smile lines ruining the crispness I had with the white tips. So I always use clear over white tips when in a hurry so I avoid this happening.

HARMONY & BALANCE

We are artists and we need to be more cosmetic in our thinking when we do a new set. There are so many ways to fudge the shape of a nail nowadays with tips and colored acrylic that we can always produce a nice set of nails even on the most challenging natural nails. I hate to see a new set with white tips that are set up so high on the nail plate there is hardly any pink. There is no excuse for that anymore. Harmony and balance should come into play when creating nails. It is like having the right haircut - it just fits. The strength of any nail is in the product, not the tip or form. Cut those tip wells out and place on the very edge of the free edge to stretch the look of the natural nail or blend them invisible. Place the white tip powder lower than the free edge and use a muted pink to fake the size of the nail. Perfect for that client that wants long nails when she has short nail beds. Design the smile lines the same way. If someone has a short nail bed wipe the smile line lower in the middle - right down to the natural free edge and higher on the sides. Stretch that shape for all you can get. When a client breaks a nail so low with no free edge when you repair it make sure the size of the white tip matches the others. Never make the white longer than the pink, that is the rule for good harmony and balance.

Each smile line should be approximately the same size. By applying the white tip powder on all ten nails at the same time you can focus on the size consistency as you apply. The index, ring and middle fingers should match with the pinky and thumb in proportion.

Working within a system when applying your white powder and wiping smile lines will help you design more consistent smile lines. Practice makes perfect and if you would like to see some perfect smiles lines watch a nail competition. Don't talk during your smile line application, concentrate. Talking is for when you file. Are smile lines really more work? Yes at first, at least until you make it part of your routine and get better at it. Set aside an extra 15 minutes per client when you first start until you get your time down and don't expect perfect smile lines for months. And be sure to establish at the beginning of the appointment that the client is not going to wear polish before you do all that work "showing her your smile" lines!!

WORKING WITH FORMS

Forms are challenging enough but when applying the white tip powder on a form you have to be good control of your product because the form is slightly slicker than a tip can be and your product can run a bit more. Place the white tip powder slightly below the natural smile line and press your product in place staying within the desired lines of the form extension. Those lines are there for a reason so use them to make your application easier. Press the powder up over the form edge to the desired smile line placement and wipe. It is similar to applying over a tip however you need slightly more control over what you are doing because it is easier 

Acrylic Removal

More golden advice from Vicki Peters circa 2001

  

TIP OF THE WEEK #7: ACRYLIC REMOVAL

By Vicki Peters

   

This week's tip of the week is about acrylic removal. So many of us still take the nippers and clip off old acrylic to replace the nails and this should be against the "nail law". It is extremely damaging and hurts the client.

WHEN DO YOU REMOVE NAILS?

This varies but when the nails will take more work to fill is when I opt to soak them off and do a new set. If I had a new client that came from a discount salon, and I knew this was not a one time client I was going to keep, what I would do is fill over the MMA the first time and schedule her a two hour fill appointment next time she plans on coming in to get her nails done. Be sure to explain why you would do this, the benefits of switching her over to an EMA based product and how wonderful you can make her nails with a new set.

HOW TO REMOVE THE ACRYLIC NAILS SAFELY

Soak them off of course.

Schedule her first hour for soaking while you're doing another client so you don't waste time not making money while she soaks. Set her up in straight acetone with Vaseline on her fingers and cuticles and cover the bowl of acetone with a towel. Add some cuticle oil to the acetone and maybe some marbles for her to play with that will help work the product off. You can heat the acetone up by placing the bowl of acetone in another bowl of very hot water and covering it. You may want to file the MMA down a speck and cut the length off first to hasten the process. Let her sit for the whole hour if possible. The longer you leave her in the acetone the better if her fingers can take it. The idea is to leave the nails in the acetone until they fall off. Taking them out and scraping the product off is ok, but can waste time - they set back up as soon as you take them out of the acetone. MMA nails will take longer then EMA nails.

Another way to remove the nails safely is to take a very wet cotton ball with acetone (use real cotton it absorbs better than synthetic cotton) and place the ball of cotton on the nail and wrap in tin foil making it fit snug around the finger. Condition her hands first with a heavy lotion. After placing the acetone and cotton on the nails, wrap all ten nails in tinfoil and paraffin dip her three times. The acetone won't get into the paraffin so don't worry about that and if it does oh well, no harm. Place her hands in a plastic bag and mitts. You can also place the hands with the plastic bags into warming mitts with or without the paraffin. The heat speeds up the process. Leave the hands and nails in the paraffin and mitts for 45 minutes. Remove the mitts and plastic bags, and with some pressure on the nails remove the tin foil taking the melted acrylic with it. You should be able to take a tissue and remove the remaining acrylic and have the clients use a nail brush to remove any acetone from her fingers and nails. If they are soaking have them wash the acetone off their fingers too.

For MMA nails the soaking may take about an hour, with EMA nails 30-40 minutes max. Fiberglass much less time and gels, forget it. They need to be buffed off.

This procedure needs to be positioned right so it is not a hassle and you're not wasting valuable time. Got a client that can't sit still for that long? Put her feet into the pedicure bath and let her soak her feet while soaking her nails - she will mellow out about sitting there quickly. She can remove her shoes and socks herself and she can put them back on so it does not take any time from you. Just get the pedicure bath ready.

SO WHAT DO YOU CHARGE FOR THIS SERVICE?

That depends on your pricing structure. When I was in the salon I charged a higher price for my pink and whites that included the soak off or backfill whenever I chose it needed to be done. This way the client could not dictate to me when to do the new set, it was my decision when I had the time. I did a lot of white tips for my pink and whites instead of backfilling and offered the soak off every 3rd or 4th fill. Which in the long run took me less time because the fills were easier. I place the tip as high as I could to stretch the white tip for a longer period of time and the clients who liked the white tips liked the soak off service that came with the deal. Other clients that did not want the soak offs because they liked having their natural nails opted for the backfills. Again I included them in the price so it was my decision when they got backfilled. I charged $5 less for a regular fill with clear or pink that usually got polished.

Bottom line I feel that the soak off takes the same amount of time clipping and cleaning up the mess after does and is a gentler and kinder way for the client as well as the nails to remove them. We need to take better care of the natural nail underneath the acrylic and soaking them is one sure way to achieve that.

Vicki

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

DISCLAIMER

Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

Business Basics: Setting Yourself Apart

TIP # 35 SETTING YOURSELF APART 

by Vicki Peters  circa 2001

Setting yourself apart from your competition takes time and effort and can't be done overnight. It is a collection of good business basics, knowledge and  experience and most of all good customer service skills. It takes experience, professionalism and wisdom to see what your competition is NOT doing. It  also takes the right salon environment. If you're working in a salon that does not share your professional ethics then you should find one that does.  If the rest of the salon does not answer the phone with the utmost care, if  you're working with techs that don't have high enough standards then you  should reconsider where you're working. And for those who think lowering your prices to compete with those discount salons up the street is taking the WRONG approach. It is, just the opposite, believe me. Here are some ideas  for you.

Professionalism
Salon appearance - does the salon look the way you want it to look? What is  the client's first impression and is there anything that you can improve on?  What is the decor and does it need updating?

Your appearance - Are you a jeans and T-shirt kind of manicurist? Will smocks  help the appearance of the techs because it is difficult controlling what  everyone wears? Do you apply makeup every day and do your hair so you feel  good about the way you look? Are your nails done? There is no excuse here.  Get a standing with a tech at another salon if you don't have time and get  your nails done. Top coat them with gel so they are resistant to acetone. We  are our best form of advertisement and if your nails don't look good then how  can you sell your services? And there is nothing wrong with natural nails -  buff them so they look neat and clean all the time. Take a look at the  things and containers on your table - it is time for a table makeover? When  was the last time you scrubbed your station down and removed all the polish  and yuck from the top of the table? How about a new lamp? Is your table set  up simple or do you have a cluttered table with personal things that looks  like an extension of your bedroom?

Table Manners - This is also important from the client's perspective. How do  you handle interruptions and phone calls while you're servicing a client? Do  you gossip within the salon? Do you have salon menus available for the new client? Do you do nail consultations for the first time client? Do you offer  alternatives to acrylic work? How to you greet the client and how do you end  the appointment? Do you meet her at the front door and walk her back to the  waiting area every time?

Do you explain your technical procedures and why you prefer the products you  prefer? Do you explain how you sanitize your implements? Do you share with  your clients the extra education you take all year long to improve your  knowledge? If not they won't know.

Trends

You need to be up on all the latest trends. Watch the consumer  magazines and be on top of all the new polish colors as soon as they are  available. Watch consumer nail shapes as well.

Referrals & Networking

take advantage of the clients that sit in your chair  before you go spend too much money on advertising. Your clients can advertise  for you. Tell them you are looking for new clients and arm them with several of your business card. Write their name of the back of the card so when the  new client comes in from a referral you so will know who it is. Reward that
client with an extra 10 minutes of a massage or something special that does  not cost money and they will remember. Discounting a service is not  memorable. Most of your clients probably believe you're booked and don't need  more clients - if you don't tell them they won't know.

Retail 

If you're not retailing you're missing the boat. The client wants your professional opinion on a top coat they do not want to go to the store and  buy something blindly they would prefer your recommendation because you know.  So why not sell them retail? Our recommendations can be powerful. They are  always looking for good hand lotion, exfoliant and cuticle products. You can
make so much more money by retailing and not having to work longer for it.

Career Enhancement 

If you're not attending several trade shows and classes a  year YOU ARE OUT OF THE LOOP. Don't you ever think for one minute you know  enough because you don't and your business will eventually suffer. Even if  you're fully booked now, that will not last. You have to maintain your career  with fresh information, constantly. Go to every product class you can, even
if you don't use or like the product. The educator may have one little tip she passes on that will make it worth your while going to the class. Also you need to  continually try new products, you never know - you just might find something  you like better and if you don't it will just confirm you're using the right  product.

Network at the shows - get online and find out who is going to what show and  meet up. Help with a competition (maybe mine?) so you get the chance to stand  over the shoulder of someone like Tom Holcomb as he competes. Watch the  judging, hang with the competitors. Share hotel expenses with other techs you  meet and network. Share ideas and attend classes and discuss with others what
you learned at the classes. There are hidden values to attending a show that  if you don't dig deeper you may miss. Spend ample time watching all the demos  you can. Never know what you can learn.

Goal Setting 

This is important to do in order to grow your career. Goals  can be getting your time down, learning new techniques so you can charge more  or training others. Setting goals on how much money you want to make each  year and how you're going to do that.

Customer Service 

I can't say enough about this. Customer service and  sanitation for that matter are two of the most important factors in securing  a loyal client, the nails you do actually plays a much smaller part in it all. If you don't take pride in how you take care of the client she will not think the service was good no matter how good the nails are.

So let's start with developing a phone dialog and customer service standards with in the salon. Answer the phone by the third ring. Take turns on answering the phone if that is what it takes when you don't have a receptionist. A consistent phone dialog should be written that every one uses. When you have to put someone on hold do so nicely don't just click. And please don't yell across the room if the phone is for some one else especially if the client is not on hold and can hear you. Keep track of everyone's schedule so when a client calls in for someone that is not there you know when she will be or take a written message and place it on the manicurist's desk. Not knowing is not good enough, the client called for a reason and she needs an answer. If you have voice mail use it and ask if the client if she would like to leave a message in so and so's voice mail if they are not there.

Develop a standard on how to greet a new client that may be a walk in. Don't let her stand there and wait for some to greet her.. Put your friendliest tech closest to the front door for that reason. And even if you're all independent contractors you should be working as a team. The client does not care if it is not your job; she just wants to be taken care of. Bottom line.

Customer service is easy and the best way to gain loyalty. Training on customer service is something to consider, there are many seminars you can take, Career Track is one of them and they are very good. I have taken several myself and there are plenty of books on the subject as well. Look outside the beauty industry for customer service help. Watch the way you are taken care of when you venture out to other salons, stores and restaurants. Give the client the impression that no matter what your salon can accommodate
her.

Setting yourself apart from the other salons is easy as I said but will take a collection of service skills to rise above the discount salon mentality. And remember there will always be "Ford" customers out there but you want the " Cadillac" customer, and in order to attract a clientele like that you have to be a "Cadillac" tech. So, are you?

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.

Acrylic Brush Care

Taking care of your acrylic brush seems to be a controversial topic nowadays!  Let me lay out the facts for you:

FACT: Most brush cleaners are made from acetone.

FACT: Hairs in the brush are made from animal fur, just like fur coats. Would you soak your fur coat in acetone?  Acetone is very drying to the hairs on your brush.

FACT: Contaminated liquid is the #1 cause of yellowing in nails.  Using brush cleaner is willingly introducing a containment into your brush.

FACT: The ferrule holds the bristles in the brush with glue. This glue is very soluble in acetone.   Therefore soaking your brush in a brush cleaner can loosen hairs from the ferrule.

FACT: Storing your brush upside down allows liquid to drip into the ferrule which also loosens up the adhesive holding in the bristles.

FACT: Storing your brush in the springs of your lamp allows for dust and contaminants to stick to your brush. (Unless you are covering up your brush somehow.)


Back in 2001, Vicki Peters did a Tip of the Week on this very subject.  I will leave you with her expertise

Tip Of the Week #4 : Brush Care

 Everyone experiences bad hair days, bristles falling out or acrylic stuck in their application brushes. There are some things you can do to prevent this from happening and hopefully these tips can help.

On-going Brush Care

Wipe in-between, after and before and all the time.  I find that I waste more liquid than use, sometimes, keeping my brush in shape as I use it because I constantly re-dip into the liquid and wipe the brush out to keep my point and shape as I work.

I dip my brush into the liquid then wipe it against a dappen dish that is firmly on the table so I can press against the inside of the dish without the dish moving. Then I twirl the tip on my table towel to bring it back to a point. When doing so wipe the tip and reshape without wiping all the liquid out of the brush. Wipe the brush gently instead of bending the bristles at the feral beating it up on the table towel. I find most techs do not care for their brush as gently as I do and I end up replacing my brush less often because of it.

 Application Stickies

 Another little thing I do when applying the white tip product to my nails (most white powder tends to be sticky when first applied). So I dip the brush into the liquid, saturate the brush and wipe it completely out, then re-dip it to the liquid I do want. Pick up the white tip powder and drop it on the tip of the nail. Then wipe your brush gently without wiping all the liquid out and bring the brush back to its original shape. While you're doing this, the product has set up a speck and is not as sticky so you don't have to make a mess as you press it into place.

Digging right into freshly applied acrylic when it is still sticky will only smoosh the acrylic into the brush and if you keep working the acrylic is drying in the brush and then you can't get it out and can't make a smooth nails because there is dry acrylic in it.

When you put the brush away

 If you do not wipe your brush well and put it away the acrylic will dry in the tips. If this is the case do not comb out the dry acrylic with your cuticle pusher or orangewood stick or nippers, you will only break the hairs and you won't like the brush anymore. Get a shot glass or a slammer glass for those who have never been to Mexico and don't know what a slammer is it is a taller shot glass. Suspend the brush with a clothespin. Fill the glass with enough liquid to cover the bristles without touching the bottom of the glass. Let it set for about 30 - 60 minutes and the dried acrylic will eventually melt out of the brush.

There are lots of brush cleaners on the market but I feel they can be harsh and disturb the chemical balance of the liquid. I do not believe you should soak them in acetone either and some brush cleaners have acetone in them. Use liquid monomer to soak the brushes if needed. Remember the hairs in the brush are made from the same animals fur coats are made from and you would not soak your fur coat in acetone would you. Now don't slam me about fur coats ok??? (I don't own one for a reason.)

Traveling with your brush

I found a silver metal flat brush case for $8 at the art store that stores brushed without moving perfectly. It has two springs one at each end for the brush to fit in so they won't move when traveling. The box is about 3/4" by 8' by 4" can fit up to 8 brushes, won't bend and is not plastic so it won't melt if the brushes happen to touch the metal. I have not ruined a brush yet in the box.

If you're booked and work full time you will probably replace your brush every few months if you take good care of it. Brushes can cost anywhere from $10 to $45 or more. The average brush cost is about $25. You get what you pay for that is for sure. There are only two or three true brush manufacturers that make brushes for companies in the nail business. Shop around and try new brushes all the time.

Brush care is a constant thing, take good care of your brushes as you work with them and always have a spare just in case you're having a bad hair day!

 Vicki

The Peters Perspective

"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

Business Basics: Time is Money

The following is a reprint of a 2001 post by Vicki Peters

Time is Money 

by Vicki Peters

I just read the e mail from the tech who has a hard time charging for extra services like broken nails. This is all about self esteem and it is sad.
Time is money and there are times we should give services away - because they  will help build our client base and loyalty. But broken nails should be part  of the equation when you set prices or they should be a la carte.

We are in the service business, we should position ourselves as service  providers making money for every moment we are working. Just like a cashier  at a store. If you go into the nail business with the attitude no one is  going to like you or your services you will not be "sure" of yourself. So here are a few things that may help you.

1. Remember this is a business and treat it like one. 
2. Hone your skills so you don't feel bad about providing a service you're not  happy with. Practice and get private training - one on one - is the best and  there is a seasoned tech somewhere out there you can pay for training. No  manufacturer class can give you that.
3. Remember that "touch" is part of the service you provide, above and  beyond the nails you do. The clients are coming to get their nails done but  they are also coming to relax, so relax them. 
4. Position yourself like a pro at what you do no matter how inexperienced  you may be. You will gain your client's confidence and they will stick with  you as you improve. Visit other high end salons for pedicures or haircuts so you can watch and see how the techs & hairstylists, receptionists meet and greet the clients and treat them. This is all a part of the service.
5. Here is some recommended reading:

• Doing what you love loving what you do by Dr. Robert Anthony
• Passion by Susie Fields Carder
• Raving Fans by Ken Blanchard 

We manicurists are special people providing a special service that connects  us closely with our clients. Remember that. We touch, guide, and make out  clients feel good and we should feel good about ourselves because of that.

Vicki

The Peters Perspective
"When you stop learning your career ends and your job begins"

Filing and Finishing Nails

After you apply your product of choice, your next step is to file and finish the nails to smooth, shape and refine.

For this post, I am going to copy/paste a "Tip of the Week" circa 1999/2000 from the great Vicki Peters (RIP, we miss you!). 

Two notes: 1. She mentions acrylic but any enhancement can be finished the same way. 2. If you prefer, you can apply a gel seal coat (finish gel) and cure per manufacturer's instructions after step 8 instead of smoothing and buffing the nail.

TIP OF THE WEEK #5  - FILING TECHNIQUES

by Vicki Peters

As a request from Jill Johnson and an e-mail to the list from Janie Robles last week I though that a tip on filing techniques was in order. What I am going to do is describe my filing system and under no means is it the end all system for everyone. I am just sharing mine - which works for me. Everyone needs a filing system or a system for anything if you think about it. A filing system can save you time and keep you focused - which will give you better results.

A story first.
My sister Diane had her license for a few months when I visited and she did my nails for me. After applying the acrylic she went to file them and pulled out four black files. She spent 15 minutes filing in no special order picking up one file after another and switching back and forth from nail to nail. She was making me nuts and not getting the job done. I took all four files away from her and asked her to identify the grit on each one as to which was coarser. She did not know. What she was doing was flipping back and forth between a 100 and 180 files sometimes using the 180 first then the 100! She would file one nail, then move on to the next and then go back again. She had no system. So I took the 100 grit file and told her to file all ten nails, then I gave her the 180 and told her to do the same thing. She saved time and was much more effective with a system she was now developing.

Vicki's filing system:

AFTER THE ACRYLIC IS APPLIED
I use a 100 grit file. I like the larger thinly cushioned files that are square ended. I like these files because I do not like files that are too cushioned or bend. I cannot get a clean line from a file that bends. However for the finish a cushioned file will hug the nail better. I also like a large board because I can get more surface contact, which allows me less filing time.

Another thing I do which may be wasted time and acrylic to some but works for me is I build every nail square even if I intend to make it round. I get straighter edges in my final nail this way.

STEP 1 - Parameter
Just like in a haircut you must file a guideline. Take your 100 grit and file the tips of the nails all straight and the same length. Hold your file straight up, not at an angle in which will make the tip inverted or at angle under that will undercut the corners off. Flat to the tip's edge.

STEP 2 - Measure the nails
Nail to nail, cuticle to tip - forget about the smile lines not lining up - that is another tip of the week! The thumbs and pinkies should be in proportion and the index, middle and ring nails should be the same length.

View the nails from the top - do not turn them so the hand is pointing up and do not turn them around and measure the size of the free edge that you can see over the tip of the finger - this will sure mess your length up because not all nails are on the fingertips at the same exact place.

Measure now at this step and you won't need to worry about it later.

STEP 3 - File the sides
Viewing the nails from the top with the file straight up and down - holding the file straight - not at an angle - file the side shapes of all ten nails.

STEP 4 - File the undersides.
Turn the nail so you are viewing the underside of the edge of the nail in a nail profile position - where it leaves the groove wall and becomes the free edge extension. With the file tucked into the groove wall and with the file touching the whole edge of the underside of the nail where is may have an overhang, file the underside edge of the extension. File both sides of the nail so now you should have all clean edges.

NO FLIPPING THE FILE!
Most techs try to achieve the last two steps in one stroke and wind up flipping the file around as they file. This does not make a straight sidewall edge and ruins the corners. So if you flip the file try using my two steps for filing the sides. Using a file that bends too much by applying too much pressure trying to get a straight edge will also be difficult to achieve a straight line.

STEP 5 - Making round nails
At this point if you want to round the nails take your file and press it flat - up to the tips' edge, then angle the file so is slips slightly underneath the edges allowing you to remove the underneath corners of the tip.

Then after taking the corners off shaping the nail round will be easier and more consistent.

STEP 6 - Shaping the top surface
Now with your 100 grit file go over the surface of all ten nails. I stay away from the cuticle and focus on lower BE of the nail down to the tip.

STEP 7 - The cuticle
Now I would do all ten cuticles.

STEP 8 - The "V" bit
I then take my Kupa "V" bit - yes named after me! And refine the cuticles. The "V" bit is a medium carbide cone with the tip cut off so it is small and flat so it fits right into the cuticle area. I view the nails from a profile so if there is a "humpage" at the cuticle I can remove it and have a nice clean blend of acrylic down to the natural nail.

STEP 9 - 180 grit file
Now I repeat all the steps I did with the 100 grit file with my 180 file to refine what I have already done. This makes for a consistent shape.

Sometimes if I have made really smooth nails I use a 150 file for both steps eliminating some time and achieving the same results. I don't always make smooth nails tho!

SECRET TIP - one thing you need to do in between grit changes is to remove the dust left behind by the coarser file. If you try to use a 180 to smooth the nails after using a 100 grit you will file into the nail the 100 grit particles left behind - gaining no ground at all. Sop don't forget to remove the grit dust in between switching files

STEP 10 - The white block
Again, dust the nails and use the coarse side of a white block, or your favorite block. Make sure you are graduating grits - some blocks can be coarser than you think. Make sure you go over the entire surface smoothing the nails completely. Go underneath and smooth the edges too - without re-shaping the edges. Use a good amount of pressure when doing this.

STEP 11 - The white block again with cuticle oil
Dust the nails again and apply cuticle oil and rub into the cuticles. Most oils you would use for buffing will be mineral oil based cuticle oil, perfect for buffing, but will not penetrate the cuticles as well as some other natural ingredient cuticle oils. Another words cheap oil is better. With the softer side of the white block buff the nails again to graduate the surface smoothness. Yes you will ruin the buffer but they are super cheap when purchased in bulk.

STEP 12 - Chamois or 3 way buffers
Wipe the nails clean with a dry cloth or towel, you want to remove the excess oil without removing it completely. Use a three-way to get a high shine or a chamois buffer.

I use two chamois buffers. Now don't give me grief about sanitation here - if you want to use a clean one wash them in the dishwasher or buy one per client. I use a chamois with EZ Flow buffing cream on all ten nails. Use a good amount of pressure without heating the nails up - so keep an eye on that. Then I use a clean chamois with less pressure to bring the shine up even higher.

If you graduate your grits properly, use the right files and make sure each file covers the entire nail when filing you should be able to high shine a nail without a three-way buffer.

Vicki

DISCLAIMER
Any products mentioned in the "Tip Of The Week by Vicki Peters" is not an endorsement of any kind.