Waterless Manicures

The very first thing a nail tech learns in school is a basic manicure.  Its pretty easy - shape the nails, soak the nails in warm soapy water, push back cuticles, apply lotion and polish.  This type of manicure has been going on forever! Well, what if I told you that this procedure is the basis for a number of problems that manicurists experience all of the time (from peeling nails to chipped polish and more)?

 

 

Now we all know the basics of nail structure. But how many of us realize that the nail plate isn't a solid structure?  It is made up of a lot of cells that were produced in the matrix and then flattened out into sheets as they grow to form the nail plate. If you were to look closely at the plate (with a microscope) you would see it isn't a solid structure, rather it is full of nooks and crannies - kind of like a sponge.

What happens to a sponge when you immerse it in water?  It fills its nooks and crannies with water and expands.  Depending on the original shape of the sponge, it can even change shape after soaking in water.

 

Now, if you were to coat said sponge in, say, nail polish, while it is still damp, what might happen when the sponge eventually dries out once again (which takes some time)?  At that point the polish is dry and the sponge has shrunk away from the dried coating, causing it to chip.  And the thinner the sponge, the more distorted the difference between wet and dry.

 

Lets look at another analogy. Wood is similar in structure to a nail plate as well, in the fact that it is made up of layers.  What happens to wood when you leave it out in the rain contently?   The repeated wet-expand-dry-shrink cycle causes the wood to split and splinter.

 

 

Do you see where I am going with this???  Repeated expansion and contraction of the nail plate when repeatedly exposed to water causes stress on the plate and eventual weakness, splitting, peeling and chipping polish.   The thinner a clients nails the more the nail will expand and contract causing even more damage (which is also why some people with really hard nails never seem to have problems no matter what they put their hands into!)  Water is classified as a solvent for a reason -  repeated exposure dissolves things (Grand Canyon anyone?).

 

Back in the day when people first started offering manicures as a service, there was not a nail industry.  They did not have a million cuticle removers an lotions and oils available to them so warm soapy water was used to soften the cuticle.  Water is damaging to the natural nail and there is no reason to soak the fingers in water any more. Nowadays we have many preparations that work better than soapy water to soften cuticle and do not swell up and damage the nail plate.  Water based manicures are obsolete technology.

 

Basic Waterless Manicure Procedure

1. Shape Nails
2. Apply cuticle remover and push back/detail cuticles
3. Remove cuticle remover per manufacturers instructions (this may entail having a spray bottle of water at your table but spraying and wiping is vastly different than soaking nails in water).
4. Apply lotion
5. Cleanse nails and polish

 

As for clients, they need to do their part at home. 

• Use gloves when washing dishes or other cleaning chores. 
• Use a good cuticle oil on the nail plate to help keep it supple (think of cuticle oil as a car wax - it helps keep the elements from soaking into the car/nail). Make sure it is a good natural oil and not mineral oil - mineral oil has too big of a molecule to penetrate the nail plate.
• After showering or bathing, they need to be gentle with their hands to avoid breaking or chipping a nail that is full of water and weak.

 

 

 

 

For more information:

http://www.nailsmag.com/article/91265/no-need-for-water-the-pros-and-cons-of-dry-manicures

 

 



Acetone and Other Solvents

The below post was taken from a response that Doug Schoon posted on a forum in 2001
----

Here are the chemical facts. Water is the safest solvent in the nail industry. Yes water is a solvent! In fact, water is called the "universal solvent" because it dissolves more
things than any other known substance.

The second safest solvent used in salons is acetone. That's why its sold for this purpose. Oh, there are much faster acting solvents, but they aren't safe enough for salons. Why is acetone so safe? Acetone evaporates quickly, but the vapors don't exceed safe levels in salons. The air levels are at LEAST five times below OSHA maximum safe limits for long term, workplace exposure. How do you know if there is too much acetone in your breathing air? I bet you wouldn't stay in a room with unsafe levels of vapor. Your eyes would burn and flood with tears long before you reached unsafe breathing levels. Because of this fact, scientists say that acetone has "good warning properties" that limit exposure. If there is ever too much in the air, you'll know it and probably do something about it. Therefore, it is very unlikely that nail technicians could become overexposed to acetone vapors in the nail salon. Even better, it is even less likely for the clients to be overexposed, so tell them not to worry about it. Acetone is NOT suspected to cause cancer by any credible government or scientific agency, including the FDA, Center of Disease (CDC) and the World Heath Organization (WHO). If this were true, it would not be allowed or used in the professional nail industry.

What about skin absorption? Facts: Removing nail polish is very safe. Only extremely small amounts of acetone will even penetrate the top layers of the skin. Most of it evaporates and dissipates quickly from your warm skin or nails. None of the acetone will pass into the dermis or basement level of the skin. None will pass through the nail plates. So, clearly it can't absorb into the blood stream. A client soaking in acetone while removing artificial nails can have tiny amounts of acetone absorb into the blood, but the exposure is very safe... far, far below the maximum safe exposure limits.

What's the extreme exposure possibility? A client removing artificial nails, soaking all ten fingers in acetone for one hour, acetone in a dish and up to the knuckle, repeated once every three months. Gulp! Most would agree this represents the maximum exposure or worst-case scenario (of course, don't try this in your salon! Product shouldn't be removed unless necessary. Some clients successfully wear them for years without ever removing them). Even at this worse possible exposure, client's are far, far below the maximum safe limits of exposure. This is why I say that normal salon use of acetone is very safe! My fifteen years of studying chemicals and their use in salons has absolutely convinced me this is true. Fact: The major hazard with acetone is fire. Be careful how you store and use acetone. Keep it away from excessive heat and away from any flames or microwaves or cigarettes, etc. Learn how to use acetone from your supplier. It is their responsibility to provide you with this information. Also, keep all of you professional salon products away from children at all times, including acetone!

Everything I said above also applies to non-acetone products. These products use a different, but similar solvent called ethyl acetate. Of course, this solvent can also be used safely in the salon. But, it is a myth that non-acetone products are safer than acetone. Acetone is slightly safer than ethyl acetate, according to OSHA data and other scientific information. If you are interested, you can also find a whole lot more information in my book on the subjects of solvents, inhalation, keeping the salon air healthy, overexposure, etc. Lastly, both acetone and ethyl acetate can be drying to the skin. They are such a good solvents- they can rob the skin of its natural oils- voila- dry skin. So, use a good lotion or moisturizer oil after you use either of these solvents. This will help combat dryness problems with nails and skin. You'll be amazed at how much a good lotion, cream or moisturizing oil will help to restore and protect your skin and nails. To prevent over dryness, work professionally and limit your skin and nail exposure whenever possible. For example, discuss and learn about "speedy" product removal techniques from co-workers or net buddies. Use plastic back cotton pads, to prevent drying of your finger tips and avoid cleaning your skin with a solvent stronger than good ol' water. Hope this information helps.

Bye for now,

Doug Schoon

Backfills (French rebalance)

We have discussed the procedure for re-balancing nails (fills) and that all well and good, but what if we have someone who has a Pink & White (Permanent French) look?  The concept of re-balancing is the same, but we have that added step of the grown out white tip to deal with.  There are seemingly as many ways to re balance a French nail as there are companies that make products!  I will present a few of the most common ways here (these methods are the same for both Acrylic Liquid & Powder or Gel nails).

Generally you would begin just like any other re-balance procedure, but with step 2 where you are thinning out and cleaning up the grown out product, you would add in the french re-balancing Prep and then when you apply product you also fill in the white.  Let me show you...

First of all, you do not need an electric file to do a backfill (French Re-balance).  The first method I am presenting is the method the NSI, CND and OPI teaches, which basically entails thinning out the entire enhancement by about 50% (you can use a hand file or electric file; they show a hand file) and then you just reapply a thin layer of product over the entire nail - basically re-building the enhancement just like a full set. One advantage to this method is that it looks like a brand new set every time (which is what you want!)
(This video has a lot of references to the NSI product line, the first video shows the prep and the second shows application - they are the same video I just skipped past all the wordiness :) )

 

Basic Electric File Method - I think that this is the most common method (at least among techs I know). I personally use a barrel bit, but she is using a tapered backfill bit.  There are a lot of ways to carve the smile line with this method.

Tammy Taylor Method - Tammy Taylor uses a thin bit to literally just gouge out the new white growth area at the smile line and fill that in with white.  Many people opt to not do this method because there may be a color difference between the new and old product

Fill Before Cut - Young Nails teaches to basically to a regular fill and then use an e-file to cut the smile line after you apply the pink product. Its basically their counterpart to the Reverse Application.

I hope this helps!

Common Nail Disorders: Chloronychia aka "Greenies" (Pseudomonas Aeruginosa)

Your favorite clients walks into the salon. You are chatting while you remove her nail polish and she is telling you how she was gardening all weekend and now has a bunch of zucchini and she asks if you would like her to bring you some. You say "That would be great!" and look down at her nails......one of which is as green as the zucchini she was talking about! What in the world happened and how do you fix it?


What are "Greenies"?
Pseudomonas aeruginosa is a common bacteria that can cause disease in plants and animals, including humans. It is found in soil, water, plant, pets, skin flora, and most man-made environments throughout the world. When it grows, it's waste produces pigments that impart the green color of chloronychia (the technical term for green nails caused by p. aeruginosa bacterium).
Normally, nail plate and nail bed are not hospitable places for the bacteria, but if they have become compromised in some way, then the pseudomonas can find a home. It feeds off the dead tissue in the plate of the nail and this is what causes the separation of the nail and nail bed. Chloronychia can occur between the natural nail plate and the nail bed or between an artificial nail coating and the natural nail plate. Some people mistakenly categorize chloronychia as a mold, but in reality mold is not a human pathogen.

How Do You Get It?
This bacterium flourishes in wet environments, such as Jacuzzis (where it can cause a rash), swimming pools (where it can cause swimmer's ear), contact lens solution, sinks, and bath sponges. Because it thrives on moist surfaces, this bacterium is also found on and in medical equipment, including catheters, causing cross-infections in hospitals and clinics. 

In a salon environment,  the vast majority of infections that occur on nails with no signs of lifting are often caused by the nail tech, according to Doug Schoon. For example, if a client touches her nails to her face and the nail plates aren’t re-cleaned the chances of an infection go up tremendously. That’s why it’s important for both nail techs and clients to wash their hands before every service. Nail techs should also individually clean the nail plates just before applying product. If you get rid of surface moisture and oils (and the bacteria) before product is applied, it will be highly unlikely for your client to get infections. "They're all over us," explains Schoon. "We typically carry hundreds of species of bacteria on our skin at any time, depending on what we're in contact with."  Improper application can lead to lifting, which can allow bacteria to get under the area where the product has separated.

"On rare occasions pseudomonas aeruginosa can cause serious infections, particularly of the eyes, so good sanitation and disinfection practices are important for more than just cosmetic reasons," says Vicki Peters. "An untreated greenie can turn into a black/brown nail and can cause the client permanent [nail] damage."


Treating Chloronychia under the Natural Nail
if the infection is under the natural nail it is usually a secondary infection and the client must be referred to a medical doctor who can treat the bacteria and clean up the nail

Treating Chloronychia under Nail Enhancements
It is best to keep nails short and free from enhancements if a Pseudomonas aeruginosa infection is suspected.  Instruct your clients to come to you if they experience lifting and not to attempt to take care of the problem themselves by gluing down the lifted area which will trap any bacteria present.

It is possible to work on a client with pseudomonas. According to Dr. Phoebe Rich, the infection is not easily transmitted from person to person in a salon. However, as a precaution, once you use a file on an infected nail, don’t use it on another nail. Wrap it in plastic wrap and toss it in the trash.

To help rid the nail plate of the infection, remove the enhancement, lightly buff the stain to open up the nail plate cells, and remove all moisture and some of the surface oils. Instruct the client to keep the plate clean and dry at all times, and wear gloves when having her hands in water or using household cleaning solutions.

"Pseudomonas will often spontaneously disappear when the underlying nail problem is cleared up. There are several home remedies that will treat pseudomonas very effectively. The simplest treatment is to use diluted white vinegar soaks (1 part vinegar to 2-4 parts water) for several weeks. You can store the solution in a dropper bottle and apply one drop under the nail twice a day. To remove the discoloration, the nails can be rinsed in a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 4 parts water) once or twice, but not for prolonged periods. If these simple remedies fail, a doctor can prescribe antibiotics for resistant cases." — Dr. Phoebe Rich

Ultimately, the nail but be cleaned, disinfected, and have any enhancements removed. But remember, you are a nail tech, not a doctor. If it looks like there is an infection present, do not risk trying to rectify the clients' problem. In most cases, it is actually illegal for a tech to work on nails that appear to be infected. Instead, at this point, you must refer your guest to a medical doctor who can treat the bacteria and clean up the nail


What if We just "leave it alone"
All pseudomonas infections can make you very sick if they spread through the bloodstream. A serious infection can cause symptoms of high fever, chills, confusion, and shock. If the infection spreads to critical body organs, such as the lungs, the urinary tract, and kidneys, the results can be fatal. The infections are hard to treat because the bacteria can resist many types of antibiotics




References
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pseudomonas_aeruginosa
http://www.nailsmag.com/article/40049/pseudomonas
http://www.aocd.org/?page=GreenNailSyndrome
http://www.nailpro.com/germs-keep-out
http://www.beautyweb.com/Ask_the_Experts/Nails/nail_fungus.htm

Non-Licensed Nail Technicians

I try to keep this blog as un-opinionated as possible, but with this subject there really isn't any scientific proof that I can post :)  So, this post is opinion based, but with rational arguments.

In the nail industry, the issue of having unlicensed nail techs reading our "trade secrets" or contributing to our forums is very polarizing.  Either people don't care or they care a lot!  I used to be firmly in the "non-licensed techs should not even be on our forums" bucket, but have since moved to the other side of the fence, and here is why.

We all started somewhere.  I personally did my own nails for many years before I decided to go to school for nails.  As a professional, I would rather the "do it yourself" types are following proper procedures. The thing is, they aren't going to go to a salon to get their nails done anyway, so why not give them the knowledge they need to avoid allergies, injury and infections? Plus there is still at least one state in the US and many countries in which nail techs are not licensed. (Now, that boggles my mind, I feel it should be universally licensed but I don't make the laws. I digress...)

Now with my stance comes a caveat: if a license is required in your locale, in absolutely no situation should an unlicensed technician be performing services on another person. Period.  Do whatever you want to yourself, but do not open that can of worms by working on someone else.

1. It is illegal.
2. It is unsafe - for the tech. Even if you do everything properly, clients sue for ridiculous things (in the US at least).  And if you are not licensed you have absolutely no recourse and no insurance that will cover you since you are practicing without a license.
3. It may be unsafe for the client. Unlicensed techs do not necessarily have the knowledge on sanitation that a licensed tech should have. 
4. If you are planning to eventually get your license and you are discovered performing services without a license, you could be banned from getting a license!  This could be for a couple years or it could be for life.  Again, it depends on your locale.
5. It degrades the industry financially.  Already the nail industry has been degraded by the activities of non-standard salons undercutting pricing and with unlicensed techs charging next to nothing, legitimate techs cannot make a living and leave the industry , leaving it to the people who charge next to nothing (and when you charge next to nothing you have to skimp on something, sadly that is often sanitation.  But I digress...again). 
6. It degrades the industry in the eyes of the consumer. Suddenly, consumers expect nails to be cheap, painful, cause infection and damaging to natural nails. (and I am generalizing here, but how do you think those misconceptions came about?)

What are your thoughts on this somewhat controversial topic?

Enhancement Troubleshooting: Pocket Lifting

Pocket lifting is a term used to describe when an enhancement gets a "bubble" in the middle of the nail plate but the area around it is still sealed down.

To understand center pocket lifting, you have to understand the concept of shrinkage in enhancement technology.  The wetter something is, the more likely it will be to shrink as it dries - shrinkage can be excessive and have negative results when there is too much monomer in your brush. 

With Gels, excess shrinkage can occur when there is too thick of a layer of gel applied (or if the bulbs are dirty or old)  so that the UV rays do not penetrate to the bottom of the gel layer, which makes it not fully adhere to the nail plate.

Why can’t I see it when I am filing, buffing and finishing the client’s nails?  
All products will shrink during polymerization. It takes a liquid & powder system 24 - 48 hours to completely cure.  The product cures to about 60% in the first hour, which leaves 40% to occur over the next few days.  The wetter the mix, the longer it takes to fully cure.  The simple reason why we cannot see the pocket lift during the filing process is because the full cure of the enhancement has not taken place.  If pocket lifting occurs; it will be evident when the client returns for a rebalance.

Why does it only happen with certain clients and not all 10 nails?
A larger or more curved nail plate can exacerbate shrinkage.  The apex is the highest part of the nail enhancement, hence the area with the most product.  Shrinkage will place force on the apex and on the center of the plate.  If this force becomes excessive, the product can pop free at the apex (or center of the nail plate).  We usually see it on the thumbs and/or middle fingers (the larger fingers) of the client.

How do I prevent pocket lifting?
The solution to this problem is simple.  Be sure to use the recommended mix ratio for optimum results.  If you have center pocket lifting, use a slightly drier mix ratio.  This should eliminate the center pocket lift. However,  be aware that too dry of a mix ratio could also cause lifting problems if the bead is so dry that it hardens before it fully adheres to the natural nail.  Proper mix ratio is key! You should always use the mix ratio recommended by the manufacturer.

With gel nails, make sure your bulbs are clean and within their optimal use strength (if you cant remember how long its been since you changed the bulbs, its time to change them!  Basically, that's every 3-4 months if you mainly do gel nails, 6 months or so otherwise. Some lamps have bulb life timers on them.)



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Much of this article comes from: http://nsinails.com/nail-lab/science-of-beauty/center-pocket-lifting-faq.html#.VgwUf3LltaQ

Common Nail Disorders: Nail Fungus

Onychomycosis/tinea unguium or nail fungus could be indicative of other medical problems or it could have caused complications. Fungus can become systemic (spread throughout the body).People with compromised immune systems (Lupus, HIV, etc) with invasive fungal infection have higher risk of complications and death.

In about one out of two dozen cases, the fungus migrates to other parts of the body, like the hands, back and legs, said Dr. Boni E. Elewski, a professor of dermatology at the University of Alabama at Birmingham who specializes in nail disorders.  For people who have nerve damage and poor circulation -- someone with diabetic neuropathy, for example -- this can have serious consequences. “Podiatrists frequently cite this as a cause of diabetic amputations,” Dr. Elewski said. “The fungus paves the way for bacteria, and it can definitely be a problem.” 

It’s not at all uncommon for patients with toenail fungus to also succumb to athlete’s foot, jock itch, and ringworm. “If your immune system isn’t functioning at its very strongest, the fungus will work against you to open the body up to other attacks,”  Dr. Nadia Levy explains. "The longer you wait, the harder it is to treat"

Dermatologists estimate these fungal infections account for 50% of all nail disorders they treat. Recent studies suggest that as much as 13% of the U.S. population has a fungal infection of one or more nails. As the fungal infection advances, the separated nail appears yellow and opaque, then appears crumbled and can brown.

Aging is the most common risk factor for onychomycosis due to diminished blood circulation, longer exposure to fungi, and nails which grow more slowly and thicken, increasing susceptibility to infection. Nail fungus tends to affect men more often than women, and is associated with a family history of this infection.

Onycholysis is NOT Fungus
Onycholysis refers to the detachment of the nail from the nail bed, usually starting at the tip and/or sides and is often caused by an internal disorder, trauma, infection, or certain drug treatments.

If addressed quickly, this common nail disorder poses no danger to clients. In general, clients should clip the affected portion of the nail and keep the nails short, keep the nail bed dry, avoid exposure to contact irritants, and wear gloves for wet work. The portion of nail that has separated will not reattach to the nail bed, so you will have to wait until the nail is fully regrown for the condition to be completely gone.  It is not recommended that the client have enhancements put on the nail until the onycholysis is gone.

Because the nail is lifted off the nail bed, creating a nice warm "pocket", onycholysis can allow fungus to more easily take root on a nail so it is important to keep an eye on the nail while the onycholysis is growing out.

As a nail technician, know that if you get a client with a nail fungus you must refer them to a doctor for treatment. Giving advice regarding nail fungus could be considered practicing medicine without a license.



References:
http://www.aafp.org/afp/2001/0215/p663.html
http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/10/11/ask-well-leaving-nail-fungus-untreated/?_r=0
http://healingfeet.com/toes-2/danger-leaving-toenail-fungus-untreated#sthash.kT74aPa4.dpuf
http://www.nailsmag.com/article/92526/under-the-microscope-onycholysis
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onychomycosis